Mugler brings flowers to his SS25 collection

After a retreat in his country house located in the Paris region, spent in contact with the earth, with pruning shears in one hand and a flower in the other, the inspiration for the ss25 collection by Casey Cadwallader, creative director of Mugler, is evident. In the 29 looks of Mugler's ss25 presented a few days ago at the Trianon in Pigalle during Paris Fashion Week, the world of flowers is subtly and conceptually honored, in a slightly apocalyptic and rather unromantic approach. The complexity of flowers is laid bare in an almost unsettling yet always poetic way, through geometric silhouettes, articulated and well grounded in the present, while respecting the house's heritage. If in recent times, Cadwallader's collections were all presented spectacularly, sparing no extravagance, in this collection the approach to clothing and its presentation is more serene and intimate. Perched on platform shoes, the first model enters the scene dressed in a short black blazer dress, held by a single button, resembling a flower's button, humbly positioned in the center to allow the flower the space needed for its expansion.

Then follows a swarm of varied looks but all heading in the same direction: black jackets with cinched waists, dresses made of light and flowing fabrics that bloom on the models' shoulders, tailored pants with wide hips in geometric and abstract silhouettes, or even a plastic trench coat to face an apocalyptic storm. The theme is respected, honored, and very clear. Looks straight out of a green and flourishing reality, almost making you want to dive into a box of begonias to participate in creating the elements that served as Cadwallader's muse. Pieces representing the creator's love for the epic world are also present, such as the cinched khaki jackets and androgynous suits tightened with laces that vaguely remind us of the Sunday attire of wealthy equestrian enthusiasts. Some models abandon the allusions and go straight to the point in their homage to nature, such as the black dresses embroidered with colorful flowers or mini dresses decorated with a sort of black net intertwining, reminiscent of the fine lines subtly decorating the petals of flowers. In this collection, Cadwallader manages to give the flower theme an unexpected interpretation, dark but without falling into drama or heaviness, and especially without falling into the trap of melancholy, a tempting option with the approaching 50th anniversary of the House.