Courrèges' ode to experimental fashion in its SS25 collection

Yesterday, in the cold and austere setting of the Carreau du Temple in Paris, the presentation of the SS25 Courrèges collection warmed the hearts of all fashion lovers and avant-garde enthusiasts. To the satisfying sound of clashing beads, the first model appeared, dressed in a black leather cocoon coat, resembling a small dark caterpillar ready to break free from its condition. The sound of the beads faded away to make room for Born Slippy by Underworld, a 90s techno rhythm that accompanied the following silhouettes, in a show of pure fluidity. The silhouettes followed one another, similar yet strangely evading redundancy, instead offering a gradual and innovative evolution of a single concept. Cycles and repetition took center stage, with retro-chic aesthetics presented in a new light, while Courrèges' Space Age DNA was preserved and enhanced with a touch of modernity.

After the show opened with the mesmerizing cloaking coats, bodies were revealed, with skin showing through looks that featured rigid yet not strict silhouettes, with sharp, clean cuts made from fabrics ranging from opaque to transparent, in a color palette dominated by black (the lead color of the show), cream, and off-white. Low-rise pants and bandeau tops, oddly reminiscent of censorship bars, were everywhere, paired with heeled sandals that sometimes reached under skirts, taking on the appearance of leggings, along with oversized sunglasses in D-frame and insect-eye shapes, an updated version of the ones from FW24. The outfits that subtly showcased the models’ bodies without any vulgarity appeared to be composed of two pieces but were, in fact, monolithic upon closer inspection. The models looked like they had just returned from a techno party in space, but without the messy mascara or unruly looks, just clean, sleek outfits you'd want to dance in all night long. 

The entire collection was conceived and crafted from a single starting point: an archival duchess satin cape from Courrèges' FW62 show. Indeed, elements of the Space Age that gave Courrèges the prestige and fame the brand enjoys today were ever-present. Key elements from the 1964 Moon Girl collection, which marked the brand’s rise, were naturally included, such as structured hems, straight trench coats, and high-neck tops with open sides. Nicolas Di Felice, Courrèges' current creative director, initially planned to showcase 40 identical models but quickly changed course, opting instead for a cyclical work where his modern version of the 1962 cape could evolve. His interpretation doesn’t have a single, definitive version: it endlessly transforms into an exaggerated hood, a backless dress, batwing pants, and much more. This constant repetition defies boredom, proving that variation doesn’t equate to redundancy. The geometries are structured, the forms controlled, the aesthetic immaculate, and the audience left in awe. In this collection, Di Felice masterfully blends past, present, and future with his consistently avant-garde and futuristic approach to fashion, all while incorporating ultra-modern minimalism and post-apocalyptic elements that make us question the space-time dimension into which his creations transport us.