Loro Piana's SS25 collection is an ode to the beauty of linen
Presented in the exceptional setting of Palazzo Belgioioso in Milan
September 21st, 2024
Eseniya Araslanova
The September 2024 Milan Fashion Week will perhaps be remembered in the future as the edition of anniversaries, as many brands are celebrating the anniversary of their founding. But the most important celebration is that of Loro Piana, which this year celebrates its centenary and, in addition to presenting the new Collection, has also organized exhibitions, collaborated with artists, and made its presence felt in the city and among the public. In this SS25 Collection, Loro Piana has placed linen at the center of everything - the ultimate summer fiber, which has been reinterpreted in a contemporary way thanks to Loro Piana's craftsmanship, through classic garments with an unmistakably modern line. Combined with materials such as cashmere, silk, and Sopra Visso wool, linen has been worked to create fabrics with a unique texture, whose appeal is both tactile and visual. The presentation of the collection took place in the extraordinary setting of Palazzo Belgioioso, where the immersive installation began with the room "All About Linen", where visitors could explore the material through a combination of different textures and volumes. The rest of the collection was revealed in a succession of rooms decorated with the natural tones of the earth and a combination of jute wall-to-floor upholstery with wood elements and printed panels, perfectly in harmony with the season's atmosphere. Also on display in the various rooms were the artworks of artist Adriana Meunié, who explores linen in its most original and pure form and elevates it to an art form.
But beyond art and textile culture, the Maison has seriously reinvented linen this season. In the Women's Collection, the material was shaped to create fluid silhouettes in a sort of evolutionary process that, look after look, moves from the heavier weight of early spring to the airiness of summer. Throughout the looks, the soft volumes, following a slender development, define the cut of the garments, with coats and outerwear becoming increasingly streamlined. A distinctive element of the collection is the play between masculine and feminine, with short jackets paired with knee-length skirts and knit coats matched with elegant yet relaxed-cut trousers. The famous Traveller jacket was produced in plongé leather in walnut syrup color, while the Belt motif, a symbol first found as a lining inside the Horsey® jacket, is transformed into a total look. Completing the ensembles were pleated skirts, airy shirts, and ink-colored prints depicting flax flowers, with mules, loafers, and boots. There were also evening dresses in white and black tones, with intricate tailoring construction adorned with pillbox and bucket hats and jewelry reminiscent of the flax flower. For the bags, the Maison presented the new Ghiera Tote and the Bobbin Bucket, new additions to the season, while the evening looks were complemented by the Extra Evening Clutch and a version of the Bale in jacquard wool decorated with a landscape motif.
For men, the progression of textures ranged from linen tweed to the ultra-lightweight technical fabric Linen Storm. Softness and fluidity of form were the guiding values of the design, which featured unstructured jackets, soft suede bomber jackets, and knit blazers. The famous Spagna jacket returned in a light brown version, while several semi-formal overshirts were added to the offer. All these jackets were paired with wide bermuda shorts, while denim, presented in different weights, was used to create workwear-inspired jackets and pants. More exotic were the long silk shirts, while classic eveningwear included a double-breasted tuxedo in wool and silk, collarless shirts, and satin details paired with lace-up shoes, sandals, and babouches, along with oversized bags such as the leather Bale and the weekend Loom bag. For eyewear, Loro Piana turned to the East with a series of models made in Japan and named after iconic brand pieces like Traveller and Roadster.
In conjunction with Milan Fashion Week, Loro Piana returned to propose one of its most successful city activations, the takeover of the newsstand on Via dei Giardini, adorned with floral compositions in flax and honey-colored wood. Open to the public, the newsstand offered visitors on September 20 and 21 the opportunity to taste the sweet "Nuvola di Lino", created by pastry chef Nicola Olivieri, and wrapped in linen fabric from the Maison. A format that has met with enormous favor among the public, not only bringing the entire Milanese community closer to the historic Italian brand but also establishing its place among the most prominent (and symbolic) names in the Italian and global luxury industry. A search for community and closeness to the city that brings Loro Piana's message of uncompromising beauty and excellence to one of Milan's most iconic streets.