The Art of Imperfection According to Tokyo James

In a world that often chases perfection, the Anglo-Nigerian designer Tokyo James delivered a powerful message during Milan Fashion Week SS25 with his collection aptly titled Imperfection. Drawing from personal memories and James’ precise tailoring expertise, the collection sought to challenge the very concept of perfection around which fashion often revolves. His philosophy is simple: "We don’t have a perfect world, so why should we have perfect clothes?" This belief is at the heart of James’ creative process, which defies fashion’s obsession with precision. "I think clothes should have character, even if they’re a little unstitched. It’s OK. Chasing perfection is unsustainable, and it’s not really good for our planet." One of the key moments of the show was James' collaboration with UGG, which brought a fresh reinterpretation of the brand’s DNA, as UGG has supported a different emerging designer every season for several years now.

The partnership came about naturally: "The UGG collaboration started as an Instagram message: 'We love what you do. Can we talk?'" For James, the collaboration was both a creative challenge and an opportunity to gain strong support from the brand. "How do I transform UGGs? How do I make UGGs Tokyo James?" he asked himself, finding the answer in the use of beads. "We thought, ‘This is beautiful. It’s demure, it’s simple, it’s clean. But at the same time it has the drama, which is very, very important." The collaboration became more than just a product—it was a dialogue between two brands, both pushing boundaries and embracing the unpredictable. "That’s why I have great partners. They’ve been amazing. They want to support in every way." James is an advocate for collaborations between established brands and emerging designers, emphasizing that "the giants need to find ways to collaborate with the young." For him, the future of fashion lies in this ongoing dialogue—a fusion of perspectives that goes beyond the surface. "The fashion industry needs to look outside the norms."

In addition to the co-branded UGG clogs, which are available in numerous other variations, including one where tobacco-colored suede is paired with a vibrant blue synthetic sole, beads were one of the fundamental elements of the collection. Their use played a crucial role in expressing the idea of intersectionality that James has always aimed to bring into fashion: "For me, intersectionality is an ongoing conversation. And that's the conversation we're constantly having." James has always explored ways to reconcile Western aesthetics with the rich heritage of Nigerian textile culture (the brand’s production is based in Lagos), which is expressed through the use of prints, woven leather, knitwear, and specific fabrics typical of certain regions. "The key style was the beads this season. We did a lot of beading, creating party dresses but also more serious and simple ones." James selected beads from different parts of Africa, with particular attention to sustainability: "The beads are Nigerian, actually a mixture between Nigerian and Senegalese. It was very important that we got them from different aspects of Africa, and in Senegal, they’re sustainably produced." Some of the pieces, he notes, were in production since February, demonstrating the care and time invested in each look. The result is a fashion that is "very clean, but with a little bit of drama. Drama is life."

The collection, presented during Women's Fashion Week, also represents a further consolidation of James' confidence in womenswear—an important factor considering that the brand originally focused only on menswear. "I’ve always wanted to do womenswear," James admitted, "I knew who the Tokyo James man was. But who is the Tokyo James woman?" The answer naturally emerged over time. "The Tokyo James woman is very confident. She knows what she wants and she goes out and gets it. I want you to always feel powerful in my clothes." A significant example of this confidence was a white dress inspired by the designer's mother's wardrobe. "This dress is inspired by one of my mother’s dresses. She wears things like this to church." Despite its relatively traditional appearance (the dress features a neckline closed with a metal zipper, from which several ruffles extend, and the front of the skirt folds asymmetrically), the dress carries many meanings: "It’s imperfect. We could have sewn it perfectly, but if it were perfect, it would have been too simple. The asymmetry gives it character."

James' creative process is not just about aesthetics but also about fostering connections and dialogue. He reflected, "Fashion is predictable. We need to get back to inspiring people. For so long, we’ve thought of ourselves as untouchable. But we need everyone, just like everyone needs us. We need dialogue between us and the general public, between us and the industry professionals, between us and the consumers. Big brands need to take more risks; they need to be open to more collaborations with the right things." James, who has been showing in Milan for eight seasons, is no stranger to the world of tailoring. However, his approach is anything but conventional. "Milan is clean, it’s tailoring. We bring that tailoring, but with something else. The essence of our brand is: ‘How do we manipulate tailoring to make it more interesting?’" His designs reflect the tension between structure and creativity, continually striking a balance between his love of precision and his desire for spontaneity and individuality. His creations lovingly contrast the older norms of Milanese fashion, where, as James puts it, "If you didn’t know who the designer was, you could put everyone on a big runway and wouldn’t be able to tell who’s who."

As he continues on his journey, already gaining new fans and supporters in Europe, Asia, and even Africa, where a large client base also demands bespoke services, James remains focused on expansion. While new physical stores are planned, for now, he is primarily focusing on growing online, aiming to make his designs accessible to a global audience. It’s clear that Tokyo James is not just making clothes; he’s also nurturing a broader conversation about fashion, identity, and sustainability. "Humanity is my biggest inspiration," he says, reminding us that behind every stitch, bead, and imperfection, there’s a story—a story that celebrates the beauty of being human.