5 things to expect at the upcoming Paris Fashion Week Women's SS25

The Paris Fashion Week Women’s SS25 is about to start very soon and, for lack of better words, it is packed with things to see and designers to discover. With its usual rich calendar, the presence of virtually every relevant designer in the industry, and a massive crowd of international celebrities and influencers, the Parisian schedule for the upcoming days will give the public and critics a sense of the industry’s current state – a state dominated by both financial and creative instability that, while it worries big companies, also allows for moments of high and unbridled creativity, as hinted at by the best moments of the Milan shows we’ve seen these days. Let’s prepare for fireworks and pyrotechnics at full volume: this is the season when fashion wants to prove it is still alive and kicking. Hovering over the entire week, of course, is the debut of Alessandro Michele at Valentino, a show that’s at the top of our list of things to look forward to at Paris Fashion Week. But the others are not to be underestimated.

1. Alessandro Michele's Valentino

There’s no need to comment too much here. It’s simply the most anticipated show of the year. Since its announcement last March, curiosity has skyrocketed, and when Valentino released an enormous lookbook for the Resort 2025 collection last June, the hype seemed to go beyond any level of expectation. Every detail remains secret; nothing is known – which only fuels general curiosity. Beyond the collection, of which we can try to predict something from red carpets and lookbooks, what intrigues the most are the presentation style, the show venue, and the celebrity guest list. In short, the entire industry is on the edge of its seat.

2. Debuts and returns

This season’s calendar will feature several anticipated debuts and returns, enriching an already prestigious calendar. Among the big names, Gabriela Hearst stands out, returning to Paris on September 30 after three years. Another highlight, on September 29, will be Niccolò Pasqualetti, finalist of the 2023 LVMH Prize, who has shown his creations off-calendar for the past two seasons and offered the press a preview of the collection at Milan Fashion Week. Also, Alainpaul, a designer with extensive experience in fashion houses such as Vetements and Louis Vuitton, will join the official calendar after showcasing independently last October. Finally, the Danish brand Ganni will make its Paris debut, marking the growing international interest in its unique and sustainable Scandinavian style.

3. Coperni's show at Disneyland

Coperni, the French fashion brand known for its viral moments like Bella Hadid's spray dress, will present its next show at Paris Fashion Week on October 1 at Disneyland Paris, a historic event for the theme park. The co-founders Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, who grew up in southern France, see this collaboration as a childhood dream come true. The show will take place in Fantasyland at 10:00 PM and will be a "unique experience", never before seen during Paris Fashion Week. The park, which recorded nearly 10 million visitors in 2022, is undergoing renovations thanks to a €2 billion investment. Coperni will be inspired by Disney princesses but with a modern and innovative twist typical of the brand. The details of the show are still secret, but there will be a cocktail at the Disneyland Hotel, and the after-party will be held at Discoveryland.

4. Obviously, Miu Miu

Many commercial brands during this season have more or less discreetly copied or reinterpreted elements that Miu Miu had introduced. The revolution that has propelled Miuccia Prada’s brand to the top of every industry ranking, making it a trend leader worldwide, is expected to be a kind of divine apparition. If all goes well, and our optimism in this regard is unshakeable, the show will reveal the direction that the industry’s aesthetic will take in the next year. The future of fashion is uncertain, but Miu Miu will point the way forward.

5. The big absentees of the season

Some major absentees will be felt during this edition. Y/Project, after announcing the departure of creative director Glenn Martens, canceled its show, initially scheduled for September 29, marking a transition for the brand after the passing of co-founder Gilles Elalouf. Also, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who was expected to return to the runway on the same day, decided not to participate, as did Benjamin Benmoyal, who canceled his show on September 25. Gauchere will present a collection in a presentation format on September 26, foregoing the traditional runway show. Other notable absentees include Victoria/Tomas, who chose to suspend activities to focus on collaboration projects, and Givenchy, which, however, will make a grand return next season under the direction of Sarah Burton.