Kamala Harris' election uniform

In the United States, presidential elections are followed with an attention to detail that we in Italy are simply not accustomed to. This includes the representative wardrobe of the candidates, usually governed by specific rules: the first is to wear American designers; the second is to adhere to a color palette reminiscent of the stars and stripes, dominated by blues, whites, and reds; and lastly, particularly for female politicians, there is the tradition of a white suit or dress, paying homage to the suffragettes. Along with these general guidelines come other elements related to political merch, often consisting of caps and T-shirts with slogans that play a role in sparking discussion and attracting visibility. However, these rules were quietly subverted by Democratic candidate and Vice President Kamala Harris during the pivotal moment of her campaign, namely, the acceptance of her nomination at the Democratic convention in Chicago. She opted for a different uniform. Firstly, the brand she wore was Chloé, a highly French label traditionally led by women (the current creative director is Chemena Kamali), and secondly, she avoided the conventional white dress, choosing instead two suits in very telling colors: one in “coconut brown” and another in classic navy blue.

According to Vanessa Friedman, who discussed it in the The New York Times, the wardrobe chosen by Harris for the occasion «wasn’t focused on her femininity—or her feminism (which is a given)—but rather on her ability to do the job». Similarly, for Rachel Tashjian of the Washington Post, the choice was about «wearing something that made her comfortable and able to focus on the task at hand». Undoubtedly, the two Chloé suits conveyed a dual message that aligned with the tone of Harris's campaign: the first relates to the very nature of presidential attire, which communicates competence and authority while conceding little to frivolity; the second carries a sense of playful irony, certainly aimed at going viral on the Internet. The “coconut brown” suit worn on the first day of the convention couldn’t help but recall the tan suit controversy stirred up by conservatives against Obama in 2014, perhaps forgetting that both Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton had worn similar suits. This controversy, now documented on its own Wikipedia page, baffles the European mind (in Italy, politicians tend to use much less subtle sartorial symbolism than in the USA) but demonstrated Harris’s desire to gently mock the scrutiny her outfits would inevitably face—carrying on with the fresh humor that has characterized her campaign from the start: the association with Brat’s success, for instance; Barack Obama's ironic gesture regarding Trump’s obsession with the size of his crowds; and even merch akin to that of Chappell Roan or referencing rival expressions like JD Vance’s «childless cat ladies».

As for merch, what seems to set Kamala Harris apart from her competitors is her desire to nod to Internet culture, with a fairly deep understanding of the fact that a well-placed joke and an ironic slogan can go a long way. After all, with Biden stepping down from the race, themes of youth and freshness, of the contrast between old-school traditionalism and modern progressivism, have re-emerged in perhaps somewhat disconcerting terms. Harris's novelty lies in her strategy of appealing to Gen Z and fostering connections with them through their most recent idols, such as Charli XCX or Chappell Roan, combining merch, a love for memes, and, of course, political support—all languages of a “chronically online” progressive audience that contrasts sharply with the much more antiquated language employed by Republicans, both in form and content. Consider Trump's communication style on his social platform Truth, filled with all caps and boomer spelling, but also the merch made of golden sneakers, red hats, hyper-patriotic shirts, prints of Trump's menacing mugshot, references to the Gadsden flag, a symbol of right-wing libertarianism, and even calls to action.

As for her personal wardrobe, Harris remains largely consistent with the image she has established over recent years: pantsuits in both institutional and pastel colors; a strong adherence to very understated tailoring typical of various female Western political leaders (which in recent years has come to embrace softer lines, more traditionally feminine colors, but in fact very few skirts); and, depending on the occasion, even associations with specific designers she frequently returns to. Chloé, for example, in Harris’s case, as well as Carolina Herrera, often paired with Manolo Blahnik shoes and pearl necklaces; but also simple low-top Converse, which undoubtedly communicate a certain lack of pretension, a simplicity of spirit. This type of power suiting differs from the “imposing” style used by Trump, with his oversized red tie, padded shoulders, and wide-legged pants. But given how heated this campaign will become in the coming weeks, one can expect Harris to strengthen and expand her use of the classic power suit—and given the rise of the officecore trend, it’s possible that her upcoming outfits will leave a much broader imprint on wardrobes and trends for seasons to come.