Martine Rose's punk intimacy

Feeling seen. Being seen. Clothes as tools of empowerment. For Fall-Winter 2024, Martine Rose turns the tables on presenting the collection. Motivated by the sentiments of being acknowledged often shared by members of her community-driven cast, the proposal is founded in the experience of the wearer. It is an exercise in the character-building power of clothes, from construction to dressing and the personal gestures that infuse a look with attitude. In early January 2024, the show was staged in London in front of an audience made up of the friends and families of the community who walked it. The intimate environment created a celebratory and affirming atmosphere, encouraging members of the cast to use the collection to fully express themselves. The show was captured on film for its formal screening at Paris Fashion Week. 

The community returns for the Fall-Winter 2024 lookbook, showcasing a combination of runway and unseen pieces from the collection. A study of individual ways of wearing clothes – gestures, movement, mannerisms – materializes in garments imbued with blanket-like sensibilities. Conveyed across tailoring, sportswear, and flow, the draped constructions invite the instinctive styling of the wearer and activate the personal attitudes at the heart of the collection. The fabrics of the collection take inspiration from the glamour of local character dressing. Oddlycoloured moirés and nappa nod at the rare groove and garage scenes of Britain, while stripy furs and shearling pay homage to Camden in the 1990s, a sensibility reinforced by papery, crunchy glazed linens. Brushed pinstripes and pilled, bobbly outerwear materials evoke a 1980s punk attitude backed up by dusted rodeo leathers and fluid pleather. Denim appears in a yellow-tinted black wash, in dirty vintage washes and in a camouflage pattern. Conjuring a 1970s underground spirit, the season proposal is underpinned by a psychedelic space print.

The Fall-Winter 2024 collection is available to buy now at martine-rose.com.