Loewe is now the world's hottest new brand

Loewe has reclaimed the title of the hottest brand in the world, a position it last held in the second quarter of 2023, surpassing fashion giants like Miu Miu and Prada – this is the main news emerging from Lyst's new report for the second quarter of 2024. Loewe's extraordinary ascent is fueled by a series of strategic moves and high-profile collaborations: from the sponsorship of the Met Gala to the new Paula’s Ibiza collection; from the SS25 show in Paris to the outfits of Zendaya, Ayo Edebiri, and Jonathan Bailey, as well as, of course, the already viral merch of Challengers, a film for which Jonathan Anderson was the costume designer. Loewe’s products, particularly the basket bags and the anagram tank top, have seen a 29% increase in searches over the last three months, and Anderson is almost unanimously considered the most interesting designer working today.

Other brands have experienced shifts in their positions within the fashion industry. Gucci, Balenciaga, Versace, Saint Laurent, and Jacquemus have all risen into the top 10 positions – likely a sign of the slow recovery of Kering after a somewhat turbulent semester. Coach has re-entered the hottest brands ranking for the first time since the fourth quarter of 2022. The Tabby bag, in particular, has driven a 27% increase in searches this quarter, becoming the third most sought-after product. Coach’s resurgence is a key element: in recent years, the American brand has become the main benchmark for defining that accessible luxury which, in these months, is proving to be the most profitable format for fashion, capable of penetrating the middle market while remaining aspirational without the now crazy prices of more institutional fashion brands. In terms of more accessible brands, Jacquemus has also climbed two positions to eighth place, supported by the launch of the wedding campaign ‘Le Mariage’ and the summer capsule ‘Les Rayures’. Skims has risen to 12th place, with a 32% increase in searches over the past three months thanks to new openings and viral marketing moments – Skims is currently the brand with the best marketing on the market.

As luxury brands continue to raise their prices, alternative-to-luxury brands are gaining market share. Dragon Diffusion has seen a 197% increase in searches, thanks to the popularity of its woven leather accessories, particularly the Dragon Diffusion Tote bag. The success of Dragon Diffusion, a sustainable brand producing woven leather bags in India, speaks volumes about the state of the market: considering Bottega Veneta has dropped one position in the rankings, the success of bags that cannot fail to recall its aesthetic demonstrates how the concept of dupe has been legitimized and is not synonymous with inferior quality, but has become a sensible and valid alternative to the greed of large luxury groups, which continue to inflate their margins. On, the Swiss sneaker brand, has also recorded a 31% month-on-month increase in searches, largely thanks to the partnership with Zendaya. Following a downturn, the French brand Casablanca has gained ground with a 64% increase in searches, thanks to its retro tennis-inspired Pre-Fall 2024 collection, riding the wave of tenniscore.

The Lyst Index reveals several standout products for this quarter. The collaboration between On and Loewe for the Cloudtilt 2.0 sneakers has led to a 308% increase in searches. Casablanca’s crochet knit shirt is the most sought-after menswear piece, with a 161% increase in searches. Dragon Diffusion’s Santa Croce woven leather tote bag has also emerged as a new cult favorite, with a 197% increase in searches. High Sport’s flared pants have seen a 42% increase in searches, gaining a cult following among US industry insiders. Amy Lynn’s Pufall dress has become a viral sensation on TikTok, generating over 61.6 million posts and a 53% spike in searches in April – once again a testament to the disruptive power of the middle market. Finally, Dries Van Noten’s suede sneakers and the Adidas SL72 OG offer retro sporty silhouettes, providing an alternative to the popular Samba shape.