Yuima Nakazato and Spiber turn biology into Haute Couture

The Unveil collection, presented at the recent Paris Couture Week by Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato, transforms natural fibers into exquisite garments by blending cutting-edge technologies with old-fashioned principles. In collaboration with leading biomaterials company Spiber, the designer developed the collection using fibers made from Brewed Protein™ materials produced through a microbial fermentation process. The resulting fabric has its own unique, luxuriously soft touch—physical proof of biotechnology’s ability to generate sustainable alternatives to the resource-intensive production processes of traditional materials. It took more than fifteen years of research and development to bring Spiber's Brewed Protein™ materials to commercial production, but with presentations of collections like YUIMA NAKAZATO as well as previous collaborators such as A Cold Wall, Yohji Yamamoto brands, Junya Watanabe, sacai, Woolrich, The North Face and more, the company is emerging in the fashion world as a biomaterial industry leader.

«Unveil is inspired by Mozart's work, Idomeneo,» says Nakazato, who has a background in stage costume design. «The story takes place in Crete, on the Mediterranean Sea, and is told through a stage design that incorporates many red ropes.» From this inspiration, Nakazato created a collection rich in color and marine silhouettes, while utilizing Brewed Protein™ fibers to explore their creative possibilities. When Nakazato met the Spiber team and learned about the properties of Brewed Protein™ fibers back in 2019, the material was still in the experimental stage. While working on prints and various types of weaving, the designer discovered that the new material contracted when exposed to a certain type of ink—a property inherited from the natural spider silks that Spiber was seeking to replicate at the time. «We found that the fabric forms a three-dimensional shape according to the print, whether geometric or organic in shape,» recalls Nakazato, a revelation that inspired both the creative and production directions of the collection. «Using rectangular shapes, we were able to achieve various forms without cutting, without waste,» he adds. This fortuitous insight proved crucial for Nakazato's brand, teaching him a unique lesson on the importance of overcoming challenges in the creative process. «Some designers think obstacles are limitations,» he says. «But for me, they are the starting point for creativity.» Thanks to the development of his own aesthetic, capable of blending technologies like Brewed Protein™ fibers with the brand's high-quality tailoring, Nakazato now emphasizes the uniqueness of his creations and their ability to make the relationship with the customer even more intimate. «Couture is unique,» he says. «We are able to use this experimental material to create very limited collections, delivering an experience that could not be achieved through mass production.»

Nakazato also sought to pay homage to the Japanese tailoring tradition while focusing his attention on every detail of the collection. «Traditional techniques are disappearing because the landscape has changed, but to create something beautiful it is always important to combine technology with craftsmanship,» says the designer. Against a dark background, characterized by large round mirrors illuminated with red lights, the looks of Unveil immersed the audience in a scene from Idomeneo, projected into the twenty-first century. The delicate yet shimmering red knitwear, made from Brewed Protein™ fibers and wool, brought to life weaves reminiscent of the opera's set design, while the jewellery referred to the marine motifs of Crete and the capes accentuated the theatricality of the collection. To make the image of Idomeneo his own, Nakazato transformed the opera's armor into delicate Japanese ceramics that functioned not only as accessories but also as musical instruments. Stripped of their purpose, Nakazato's armors become a paradox: shields that, instead of protecting, amplify the wearer's vulnerabilities. Like the accident that turned Spiber's Brewed Protein™ materials into Nakazato's most important discovery, Unveil has a happy ending.