The rise of the engagement watch trend

Some rely on classic diamonds, others prefer inherited family jewelry, rich in history and with unique sentimental value, and still others opt for shoes, inspired by the famous proposal of Mr. Big to Carrie Bradshaw: when it comes time for the big proposal, there are now many ways to make the occasion original and, therefore, even more unforgettable. Recently, giving a watch as an engagement ring seems to have become a new trend in weddings. A trend that focuses on the utility and durability of the gift, perhaps also with the desire to emphasize the importance of shared time.

In reality, this trend is not entirely new. In South Korea, in addition to traditional engagement rings, it is customary for couples to exchange watches. However, this does not seem to be the origin of the engagement watch, a term used by English speakers to describe the phenomenon. Rather, the responsibility is attributed to the rise of the female sector in the watch world and an increasing focus on the wedding industry. A study conducted by Vogue Business in 2023 highlighted a change in the watch industry, with particular attention to the female accessory world and genderless design. “The rise of gender neutrality has driven women towards purchasing categories historically oriented towards men and 'masculine' designs,” explained Federica Levato, senior partner and fashion and luxury leader in Europe, the Middle East, and Africa for Bain & Co. According to data collected by the Swiss company Audemars Piguet, the female clientele, which represented 16% in 2021, experienced a significant increase to 24% the following year. Lisa Fristik, senior director of jewelry and watches at Fashionphile, one of the first companies to resell luxury products, had begun to track the trend of women's wristwatches as early as 2021. Compared to the previous year, searches for the word "watch" had increased by 72%, along with those for "women's watch," which saw an exponential growth of 92%.

The watch has increasingly become an integral part of the world of women's jewelry, aiming to reach the same prestige it has historically held in the male context. At the last Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva, the change was evident: among the major brands that demonstrated embracing this evolution were Chopard, which presented a new edition of Happy Sport in aquamarine gradient and a jewel watch covered in diamonds and sapphires. Followed by Hermès, with the female version of the sporty model The Cut, and finally Cartier with “Reflection de Cartier" and a jewel watch that plays with the optical phenomenon of the mirror to make time run backward. “The enthusiasm for watches is becoming a trend. Fifteen years ago, collecting watches was a nerdy hobby, but now it has suddenly become a cool lifestyle in which women also participate,” explained Rolf Studer, CEO of the independent Swiss brand Oris, to Euronews.

According to the magazine Business of Fashion, contributing to the rise of the watch as the new frontier of engagements is also the increasing commercialization of weddings. Wedding celebrations are turning into extended events, often spread over several days. Added to this is the desire to celebrate with innovative and personalized rituals, capable of commemorating the event uniquely. Creating new cultural traditions becomes a way to assert oneself, especially in contexts where acceptance and inclusion may not yet be fully realized. “It was more of a way to commemorate this moment with something that felt really special,” explained Joseph Maine to Business of Fashion. Maine, celebrity hairstylist and founder of Trademark Beauty, recently proposed to his partner Jack with a Rolex Daytona. Jack, in turn, gave Maine a Rolex Presidential Day Date. With the wedding industry increasingly expanding towards LGBTQIA+ events, the trend of giving a watch as an engagement ring reflects not only a change in couples' tastes and preferences but also a broader movement towards gender equality. The focus on the female world in the watch industry no longer simply derives from the adaptation of male designs but is expressed through true art that responds to the specific needs of an increasingly wide and diverse clientele.