Castelbajac's liturgical garments for Notre-Dame de Paris
French couturier chosen to create 2,000 ornaments for the opening ceremony
June 24th, 2024
On December 8, 2024, after more than five years of titanic work, Notre-Dame de Paris will finally reopen its doors. Since the devastating fire of April 15, 2019, the cathedral has been the center of exceptional mobilization, bringing together renowned artisans, architects, scientists, and artists. Among them, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, an emblematic figure of fashion and contemporary art, was chosen by the Paris diocese to create the liturgical garments for the reopening ceremonies of the cathedral. This mission, a true « accomplishment » for the designer, marks a new milestone in his career already marked by prestigious collaborations. While he helplessly watched the fire from the banks of the Seine with his sons, he felt deep sadness but also a determination to participate in its rebirth. The next day, he sketched a new stained glass roof for the cathedral, a spontaneous gesture that would prefigure his involvement in the reopening project.
The designer is no stranger to the world of liturgical fashion. In 1997, he had already designed the liturgical outfits worn by Pope John Paul II, the bishops and priests during the World Youth Days in Paris. For Notre-Dame, he took on an even greater challenge: creating 2000 pieces to dress nearly 1500 bishops, priests, and deacons. To do this, he drew his inspiration from the architecture and history of the cathedral. The bright colors of the stained glass windows, the dazzling white of the stones, and the golden cross by artist Marc Couturier, which remained upright in the choir after the fire, all influenced his creations. « I wanted to contribute to the church of tomorrow with garments that speak of the future, » he said. He sought to combine simplicity, solemnity, and modernity, using contemporary techniques such as flocking, commonly used in streetwear. His creations are not only aesthetic but also symbolic. He reintroduced the chrism, an ancient Christian symbol 1700 years old, redesigning it with primary colors. The colored bands added to the garments highlight the celebrants' movements, creating reflections and accompanying their gestures during the ceremonies.
Creating the 2000 pieces for Notre-Dame represented a true challenge, both technically and artistically. Each piece was designed to harmonize with the Gothic architecture of the cathedral, while meeting the requirements of contemporary liturgy. It was a team effort, a collaboration with the great French houses, combining traditional know-how and modern techniques. The designer wanted to « bring authenticity back to the images and ensure they carry meaning in a society overwhelmed by a constant stream of videos and photos. » This approach, blending modernity and respect for tradition, found a particular resonance in the context of the restoration of Notre-Dame. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, through his talent and creativity, made a valuable contribution to this monumental project symbolizing resilience and renewal.