Lev Tanju unveils his first FILA+ collection

Tanju is an observer of cultures and subcultures. In reading sports through the lens of fashion, he is interested not in the static act of merely appearing. Rather, he favours the dynamic reality of doing and making. What Lev prompts at FILA+, ultimately, is a sense of heightened everydayness, channeled through a wide variety of people: makers of all ages and walks of life, coming as they are. They are the models in this presentation.

The FILA+ collection for Spring Summer ‘25 is an interplay of different iconographies, all linked to the multifaceted FILA history. It originates in the sailing and boating roots of FILA: Azzurra, and its adventurous regattas in extreme conditions, wind blowing, waves foaming. Lev Tanju focuses on the people who work on the sailboats and devises a transversal offer that comprises outerwear in fluorescent colors with a reflective F-Box logo, boat shoes with sporty branding, acetate tracksuits, and tailored suits cut in technical fabrics. This is mixed in with nods to tennis club attire and hints to 1990s Italian football and the various subcultures it gathered. Preppy shirting comes in bright colors; denim boots hint at new ways of reinterpreting the classics. The industrial and an idea of uniform mix with rather more formal feelings, as bright notes are amalgamated with washed purples, dark oranges, and military greens. As a mark and a sign, the FILA flag and the F-Box recur, drawing all over patterns while functioning as something more than just a logo.

Tanju expressed his honour and excitement at being given the opportunity to work with such a historical brand. Viewing it through a personal lens, he found inspiration in FILA’s past, particularly from Bjorn Borg’s off-court style in the 70s, where he wore ripped jeans and a super tight towelling polo. This inspiration from the past was pivotal, leading Tanju to reimagine these elements with new colors and fabrics while visiting the FILA archives. «It's very personal for me because it's just what I want to wear always. So I'm just making nice tracksuits, loafers with a flag on the side, and boots that I want to wear. It's quite personal to me, what I like, but then being very respectful to their archive and doing things with a little twist, just modernising it,» said the designer. When asked about the connection between FILA and Palace, Tanju noted the differences between the two brands. FILA, with its rich history in sportswear, contrasts with Palace's identity as a young streetwear brand. However, Tanju sees similarities in their approach to collaboration, having worked extensively in sportswear with other partners like adidas. They aim to create a new moodboard reflecting their personal tastes and what they love about FILA.

Additionally, Tanju expressed excitement about working in Italy with Italians, stating that «doing cool things in Italy» is important to him. The collection is a testament to FILA+ being, quite simply, FILA with a Plus. It stands for a distinctive point of view and expression provided by an auteur who non-nostalgically follows the innovative path set by designer Pierluigi Rolando, pushing the functionality of sportswear in ways that gather communities and propel the heritage into the future. This is the first actual presentation, just as the first global campaign, shot by Ryan McGinley, is about to be unveiled and with the Fall Winter ‘24 collection arriving in stores at the end of August in Antonia, Dover Street Market, LUISAVIAROMA, Nubian, Selfridges, The Webster, and more.