Hermès makes a triumphant return to New York

On June 6th, the Parisian luxury house Hermès took New York by storm by unveiling the second part of its autumn-winter 2024-2025 collection. Pier 36, transformed for the occasion, featured symbolic visual elements bathed in a cold blue light. Directed by Nadège Vanhée, the French house continues to reinvent itself while staying true to its heritage. For the occasion, Vanhée, drawing on her New York experience, successfully met the challenge of marrying Parisian elegance with the eclecticism of the Big Apple.

The set of the show was a spectacle in itself. Giant traffic lights, characteristic of the city, were suspended everywhere, creating a striking contrast with the cold blue light that filled the room. The latter, carefully designed to resemble New York streets, also featured the bar “Hermès Manhattan Rocabar” adding a touch of authenticity to the decor, while in the background, pieces like “Do you like my accent? I’m French” composed the show's soundtrack. Celebrities and VIPs were in attendance. Usher, Tierra Whack, Jenny Slate, and Lily Allen could be seen strolling through the space, proudly sporting their Birkin and Kelly bags. For this second episode, Nadège Vanhée, a former New York resident and artistic director of Hermès for ten years, seemingly drew on her memories and experiences to create pieces that tell a story of duality and harmony between two metropolises. “The city has a unique and timeless energy that continuously inspires,” she said.

The central idea of “riding”, encompassing both traditional horse riding and rebellious motorcycling, was evident in the stylistic choices. Models sported black leather sailor hats, scarlet trousers paired with mustard yellow jackets, and printed silk tops. High-waisted black leather pants, earthy yellow work overalls, and rich brown leathers paired with saffron tones also embodied this fusion of styles. The inspiration of the 70s was also omnipresent, with cocoon coats and biker-inspired leathers, recalling the vintage aesthetic of the era, adding a nostalgic touch to the collection while remaining resolutely contemporary, creating a perfect balance between past and present. As for accessories, bags were worn in multiple ways: crossbody, at the waist, as mini backpacks, or prominently clutched in the crook of the elbow. Light shearling jackets tied around the waist, sturdy black leather jackets, and layered garments created a realistic and urban style. To top it all, the show highlighted diversity, with models of different sizes and backgrounds, including Paloma Elsesser and Jill Kortleve. Although essential across the Atlantic, inclusivity is still rare on Parisian runways. By embracing this practice, Hermès demonstrated its willingness to adopt the codes of its host city.

The public's reaction was unanimous: this show left a lasting impression and reaffirmed Hermès' position as a luxury leader. The impact of this presentation on the brand's image and on the American market cannot be underestimated. With this triumphant return to New York, the brand once again proved its ability to innovate and inspire, promising a bright future for the brand in the city that never sleeps.