Rescheduling the Balmain show
An emerging trend in the fashion industry
June 7th, 2024
The fashion industry is undergoing significant changes with notable shifts in the fashion show calendar. Recently, Balmain announced the rescheduling of its men's spring 2025 collection show, initially planned for June, to next September. "Following recent executive changes, with new CEO Matteo Sgarbossa taking the leadership role a month ago, Balmain announced today [Wednesday] that it is changing the date of the presentation of the house's men's spring 2025 collection. The collection, which was initially planned for June, will now be presented in September during the next Paris Fashion Week." This decision, coming shortly after Fendi declared its absence from the upcoming Paris Couture Week as part of a reorganization of its own shows, raises important questions. Why are these reschedulings multiplying and what will be their impact on the fashion industry?
The case of Balmain is not isolated. In recent months, several major fashion houses have announced changes in their show calendars. Besides Balmain, Fendi has also chosen to reschedule its shows, announcing its absence from this month's Paris Couture Week, opting to revise its presentation calendar. The reasons behind this trend are multiple. There is an imperative need to adapt marketing strategies to the global market realities. Brands now seek to maximize their impact and visibility on the international scene, which may require a complete overhaul of traditional show calendars. Additionally, there are logistical challenges. Major events, such as the 2024 Paris Olympics, add an extra layer of complexity to the show planning. The need to synchronize presentations with these global events while avoiding date conflicts imposes unprecedented flexibility on brands. The proximity of some event dates may force fashion houses to adjust their calendars, not only to avoid conflicts but also to capitalize on the media attention generated by these high-profile events. Thus, these adjustments reflect a necessary adaptation to an ever-evolving fashion landscape, where flexibility and responsiveness are keys to success.
Changes at the top of fashion houses also play a crucial role. The recent appointment of Matteo Sgarbossa as the new CEO of Balmain likely influenced the decision to reschedule the show. Sgarbossa, previously international director at Givenchy, took over the leadership of Balmain a month ago, succeeding Jean-Jacques Guével. His arrival marks a strategic turning point for the brand. Under the direction of Rousteing since 2011, Balmain has experienced a period of growth and modernization. Together, Sgarbossa and Rousteing aim to build on these solid foundations to lead Balmain into a new era of global success, while introducing strategic innovations and expansions. The rescheduling of the men's spring 2025 collection show may then be a first step in this direction, allowing the brand to better synchronize its strategic initiatives with its fashion presentations. The news has elicited various reactions among industry professionals. Some see it as an opportunity for renewal, allowing the brand to reassess and strengthen its strategies. Others worry about the potential impact on the traditional fashion calendar, fearing that such changes might disrupt the well-established structure of fashion weeks.
Compared to that of Fendi or Y/Project (whose return we eagerly await), this decision is part of an era where major fashion houses are revisiting their policies, signaling a global reassessment of collection presentation methods. Despite its low profile this month, Balmain remains very active on other fronts. One of its most exciting projects this year is the launch of its first fragrances, as part of a new beauty license with Estée Lauder. This partnership opens promising horizons for the brand in the beauty sector, offering the opportunity to diversify its offerings and reach a broader audience. In addition to fragrances, Balmain has several other initiatives aimed at strengthening its international presence. These include exclusive collaborations with other brands, geographical expansions into new markets, and innovations in its clothing and accessory collections. Overall, this rescheduling decision seems beneficial for the brand, and it is likely that other houses will follow suit. This trend could lead to a more general restructuring of the fashion calendar, offering greater flexibility and better adaptation to global market dynamics. Ultimately, this evolution could help redefine the standards of an industry in need of a refresh.