5 LVMH prize semi-finalists to keep an eye on

An essential event for young fashion creation, this 11th edition of the LVMH Prize stands out with unique proposals influenced by urban vibes or marked by the return of a sophisticated feminine wardrobe. From February 29 to March 1, the semi-final pitted 20 brands from eighteen countries against each other, under the watchful eye of fashion industry experts. Excitement builds as the names of the 9 finalists are awaited, but already, we've chosen to highlight 5 creators to keep a very close eye on.

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt

At 27 years old, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt has already made her mark in fashion history. With two shows in Paris, a notable presence in the best showcases globally, the distinguished Belgian creator embodies the daring contrast unique to Belgian School. Her creations, both interpretable and narrative, embrace distinctive sensuality. Graduating from La Cambre in Brussels in 2020, Marie shaped her path at giants like Balenciaga while remaining faithful to her unique fashion vision. Her eponymous brand, launched in 2023, breathes timelessness by drawing inspiration from everyday objects. The bold cuts, precise constructions, and luxurious materials give her creations a distinctly striking allure. The world hastened to discover her, with about fifteen points of sale, from the United States to Japan, and a presence online with prestigious retailers like Net-A-Porter and Ssense. Marie, still working solo, weaves collaborations with artisans to enhance her creations, notably in accessory development, bags, and shoes.

Duran Lantink

Revealed by his iconic vagina pants for Janelle Monae in 2018, Duran Lantink is a creator who constantly pushes the boundaries of convention. Based between Amsterdam and Paris, the Dutchman unveiled his second show at Paris Fashion Week last February, reinventing winter wardrobes with astonishing proportions. Merging beloved pieces, unused stocks, and sustainable materials, Lantink creates ever-evolving clothing. His unique approach, based on formal principles of addition and subtraction, offers characteristic silhouettes reminiscent of those by Rei Kawakubo. His 2023 show, combining custom three-dimensional sculpture and traditional craftsmanship, captivated the attention of Vogue UK, Vogue US, Dazed, i-D, and Paper Magazine. His custom collaborations with cultural icons like Beyoncé and Billie Eilish reinforce his position as a visionary creator.

Niccolò Pasqualetti

Niccolò Pasqualetti, a young designer with elegant and avant-garde taste, has emerged as an innovative force in the fashion industry. His brand, recently established in Paris, brilliantly reinterprets classic couture, merging tradition with genderless fashion elements. Trained in Venice, Belgium, and at The Row in New York, Pasqualetti earned a master's degree in women's ready-to-wear at Central Saint Martins before working at Loewe. His androgynous wardrobe, inspired by Italian sartorial codes, rediscovers forgotten elements, creating a new clothing style between classic feminine and masculine. The echo of his creations resonates between Paris and Tuscany, where they come to life alongside local artisans.

Standing Ground

Michael Stewart, hailing from Ireland and graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2017, founded Standing Ground in 2022, dedicating his brand to contemporary evening wear, bespoke clothing, and body adornments. Inspired by geology, his creations revolutionize evening fashion. Standing Ground's practice revolves around body specificity, where draping, sculpting, and artisanal techniques harmonize with individual form. A favorite among celebrities, he graces many red carpets, most recently, Florence Pugh adorned one of his creations during the promotion of Dune 2. His dresses, far from mere garments, are odes to uniqueness and elegance. The proportions and silhouette capture temporal resonances of ancient landscapes, artifacts, and relics, fused with speculative future elements. Stewart, who never sketches his creations but drapes them directly on the body, offers a quality transcending bespoke.

HodaKova

Launched in 2021 by Ellen Hodakova Larson, Hodakova embodies Swedish boldness with an avant-garde approach to sustainability. In her Spring-Summer 2022 collection, she pushes the boundaries of upcycling, affirming her commitment to fully sustainable fashion. A visionary in her field, Ellen Hodakova Larson aspires to create the world's first entirely sustainable fashion house. Her flexible approach to the business model explores creativity while supporting craftsmanship. Working with neglected pieces, she focuses on quality, potential, and craftsmanship to bring creations to life with history and sentimental value. Her latest feat: a completely upcycled handbag in collaboration with Gucci.