5 shows you missed at London Fashion Week FW24

This winter London brought a frosty breeze to the runway. Clashing against toxic masculinity, gender norms, and unsustainable production, designers chose an apocalyptic narrative, born out of the times. Observing the latest collections of British brands, one can grasp the keywords guiding contemporary fashion: functionality and sensuality. In addition to these, the collections respected two very different threads, from organic hues hinting at the importance of sustainability, to historical silhouettes reviving ancient trends. Here are 5 shows you missed at London Fashion Week Women's FW24.

The femme fatales of Dilara Findikoglu

Using femme fatale to describe Dilara Findikoglu is an understatement, but it's the first term that comes to mind when one observes one of her shows. This February, FW24 was presented against a dark background, a setting that allowed the embossed details on the garments to stand out even more. As the designer recounted after the show, the presentation aimed to stage a ritual to end toxic masculinity and move beyond, creating a world away from political norms and reality. Each look explored a side of worldliness, rewriting its rules: office suits were deconstructed and transformed into Victorian dresses, corsets and gloves were worn as armor, rather than as sumptuous accessories. To the tropes of the male wardrobe, from football jerseys to scarves, belts, cone bras, and bodices were added. The finale introduced garments created with specially stiffened material, forming crystallized silhouettes in the air, voluminous and fluid. Even in episodes of nudity, the collection conveyed power and dominance, a sense of feminine ferocity reaching its peak in looks that included armor made of silver feathers and electric blue.

Simone Rocha post Jean Paul Gaultier

After guest designing for a titan like Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Couture Week, it's hard to miss. Whether working for the enfant terrible left her with new lessons, or her latest collections are always dotted with fascinating elements, Simone Rocha's FW24 also presented a shock-proof collection. This time with a slightly dark sentiment, the show paraded in the Anglican church of St. Bartholomew in London and explored the stylistic codes of Queen Victoria's mourning dress. Combined with transparencies and the comfort of our era, furs, diamond rhinestones, and black taffeta ruffles brought to light multi-centenary fashions. We saw a new Simone Rocha, yet recognizing in the bows, flower appliqués, and ballerinas the same delicacy that enamored the fashion industry. As if that weren't enough, alongside the new collection, the designer introduced the launch of her new collaboration with Crocs, Platform Clogs submerged in pearls and diamonds.

The new talents of Fashion East

Fashion East is a non-profit support network founded in the 2000s to support emerging talents in British fashion. Over the years, it has helped established creatives, including JW Anderson, Simone Rocha, Kim Jones, and Martine Rose, and each season offers multiple designers the opportunity to use dedicated spaces to present their collections. This FW24, Johanna Parv and Olly Shinder stole the show, both with garments challenging the boundary between functionality and sex appeal. Parv's lineup was characterized by technical silhouettes and fabrics that transformed the skirt into a sharp weapon, while Shinder's designs rewrote the rules of latex-wear. Laboratory aprons and high leather boots paraded on a muscular cast, giving life to an industrial-chic aesthetic where adherence reigns supreme.

Burberry goes strict

The front row of Burberry, along with that of JW Anderson, is among the most sought after by stars during London Fashion Week, but it's not the only reason fashion industry insiders keep a close eye on the brand. Finally, a show where the artistic direction of Daniel Lee seems to have taken a precise direction, the hyper-British maison paraded to the notes of an Amy Winehouse mash-up, modernized trench coats with prints, geometric cuts, high collars, and broad shoulders, "tighter" and neater compared to previous collections. Through the use of asymmetries, zips, and deep necklines, knitwear and cargo pants were invested with sensuality, while boots and bags expanded immensely. Moss green formed coats and jackets, Afghan coats and 1970s prints worthy of early Rolling Stones London made their debut, while black and forest green infused the looks with a more contemporary feel.

At Paolo Carzana, the study of the organic

Welsh designer Paolo Carzana has been attending London Fashion Week for just two years, but his work rightfully enters the list of brands to keep an eye on during the fashion week of the English capital. Even in this FW24, titled Melanchronic Mountain, the main focus was on the study of organic materials for garment production, as well as the discovery of new shapes and silhouettes in an artistic panorama that often prefers to conform. Presenting a collection that echoes the palettes of romantic painters, Carzana worked with vegetal, recycled, organic materials and natural dyes, ultimately bringing transparencies and shadows, layering and frills to the runway. Military green and khaki exuded an aesthetic worthy of Dune, while a scale of grays evoked both the texture and imperfection of rock.