The history behind the mask with the crucifix worn by Ye at the SuperBowl

Two days ago marked the 14th anniversary of the passing of Alexander McQueen, the rebellious genius of fashion who profoundly influenced the contemporary artistic landscape. The young talent from the East Side left an indelible memory in the heart of Kanye West as well, who chose to pay tribute to the designer in his own way. Two days ago, the Chicago rapper attended the SuperBowl with his face entirely covered by a tight black mask. For the most significant sporting event in the United States, Ye's customary mask was adorned with a white crucifix, a clear reference to one of Alexander McQueen's most memorable late 90s runway shows. In 1996, the designer chose the Christ Church in Spitalfields as the setting for his new show, titled Dante. The collection presented models dressed in black lace veils with their faces covered by a white crucifix on a cross-shaped runway. The accessories created by McQueen for the show drew inspiration from artist Joel-Peter Witkin's project Portrait of Joel, New Mexico 1984, which depicts a man wearing the same mask.

The FW96 collection emerged as one of the most iconic fashion shows of contemporary fashion. Given the general appreciation of the audience, it demonstrated how fashion could feel free to draw inspiration from the Catholic imagery, even though McQueen never declared himself a follower of the Christian religion. For the show, Kate Moss, Debra Shaw, and Kristen McMenamy played the roles of intimidating muses, exuding an almost destructive sex appeal; blasphemous characters placed within a frame seemingly covered by an aura of sacredness. For this reason as well, the memory of the Dante show is still strongly felt in the entertainment and fashion world: it was not just a parade of garments and accessories but a 360-degree spectacle full of pathos and a message that still resonates today. Kanye West managed to rediscover McQueen's collection dating back almost thirty years, reinterpreting the mask in a completely new version: a true balaclava that covers the entire face, very different from the original version that could remind one of a carnival accessory. No one probably would have imagined glimpsing a reference to Alexander McQueen's universe at a sporting event like the SuperBowl, yet Ye's gesture successfully communicated the gothic imagery of the designer to the new generations.