5 emerging brands from Berlin Fashion Week to keep an eye on

The Berlin Fashion Week concluded in a whirlwind of latex, dark colors, and techno sounds. While the packed schedule confirmed our preconceptions about Berlin aesthetics with brands like Dennis Chuene and Maximilian Gedra, it also made room for unexpected femininity and delicacy with labels such as Bobkova, Lou de Bètoly, and Malaikaraiss. Berlin reveals itself as a lively, open, and inclusive city, the capital of European clubbing but also a stage for important reflections on the state of contemporary society: «We are experiencing a frightening shift towards right-wing politics and parties in Germany, across Europe, and worldwide,» said Michael Biel, Secretary of State for the Department of Economy, Energy, and Public Enterprises during the opening dinner of BFW. «It is therefore important for me to clarify one thing tonight: we will not tolerate this in Berlin. We clearly oppose all forms of discrimination, antisemitism, Islamophobia, and fascism in Berlin fashion.» Here is the best of a showcase that, though emerging, already has something to teach the major global Fashion Weeks for its approach to politics and social issues.

Anonymous club

With rabbit ears a la Donnie Darko, a cameo by Stefano Pilati, prosthetics simulating the sculpted bodies of bodybuilders, and disturbing techno music, Shayne Oliver's Berlin debut was one of the most talked-about events of Berlin Fashion Week. Set in an abandoned shopping center, the runway featured shopping carts scattered around in a stark criticism of consumerism. Gray jumpsuits, shorts, double stiletto heels, floating aprons, protective suits, and latex gloves—the garments certainly had less appeal than the models' performance itself. Most of them wore prosthetics on their faces and legs to recreate the muscular vigor of bodybuilders, a choice Oliver himself commented on as a tribute to the "strength of youth" and the idea of "no pain, no gain."

Namilia

Namilia is undoubtedly an institution in Berlin fashion. The brand founded in 2015 by the designer duo Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl presented its latest collection at the Kulturforum Gemäldegalerie, Berlin's mammoth museum of espionage. «Pfoten weg!», the name of the AW24 collection, featured looks ranging from glamour to trash while homophobic and racist comments uttered by an off-screen voice in German served as a soundtrack in a parable celebrating the courage of trans people to expose themselves in public and live their lives freely. Materials and aesthetics play a central role this season, with a series of realtree patterns and customized monogram prints. Pinks and glitters interact with stretch lycra and vegan leather, creating a dynamic visual narrative while new silhouettes, with sculptural fits and couture-inspired designs, redefine the urban aesthetic of the brand. The casting reflects Namilia's well-known dedication to diversity, encouraging individuals to embrace their truth unapologetically.

SF1OG

The AW24 collection runway show by SF1OG took place in the gymnasium of the Ernst-Reuter-Gymnasium, evoking a nostalgic journey through school desks. Set to the tune of What's my age again? by Blink 182, models strutted down the runway wearing garments ranging from streetwear to sartorial excellence. Honorable mention goes to the collaboration with Eastpak, which saw the brand's iconic backpacks reimagined in a distressed and leather-upcycled fashion. With its genderless and experimental design, Berlin-based fashion brand SF1OG draws primarily from past inspirations: tailored blazers and pants with pleats, but also workwear, furry moon boots wrapped in cables, and caps reminiscent of paper boats we used to build during school hours. The design studio was founded in 2019 by Rosa Marga Dahl, later joined by business partner Jacob Langemeyer. All pieces function on various levels: aesthetic, cultural, partly political, but above all, sustainable.

Sia Arnika

The winner of the Berlin Contemporary, Sia Arnika, presented her looks in a former club near Potsdamer Platz. The collection focused on contrasting textures: wrinkled-effect fabrics, transparent garments, shiny materials, and a color palette centered on neutral tones, contrasting with vivid black and red. For Arnika, the aim of the show was «to explore the power of transformation through clothing.» Among other materials seen on the runway, high-quality leathers alternated with worn cotton pieces, once again emphasizing the designer's concept: «every collection I create embraces duality, and this narrative revolves around contrasts like disorder and ornamentation, the banal and the provocative, and the art of layering and shaping.» The AW24 collection draws inspiration from Danish silent film actress Asta Nielsen, one of the most famous women in Germany in the 1910s. Born in poverty in 1881 in Denmark, her rise to success in the silent film era in Berlin parallels my own journey," Arnika stated, referring to the importance of Nielsen's many roles in «exploring the power of transformation through clothing, fabrics, and expression.»

Lueder

Designer Marie Lueder's debut runway show took place in front of a huge sphere, symbolizing «a new rebirth and a moment of unity.» Titled Sun at night, the collection showcased a wide repertoire of knitwear, hoodies, and denim, contemporary pieces paired with Vibram 5 finger shoes «to maintain contact with the ground even in an urban context.» Constantly confronting a world in constant evolution, the London-based designer, who founded her brand in 2019 as a performative space exploring new male identities, brings to life collections that represent a hybrid of sportswear and functional aesthetics, complemented by meticulous attention to sartorial details stemming from Lueder's training as a tailor at the Hamburg State Opera.