«I have a duty to give people opportunities»: how was Sabato De Sarno's talk at Milano Unica

«Who is Sabato De Sarno?» has been the question on everyone's lips for the past seven months. A question that the press has answered using the means it knows: profiles, photoshoots, a recap of the long career of the new creative director of Gucci. But nothing beats a face-to-face encounter, and perhaps De Sarno knew this. That's why the talk Falling in Love with Fashion, Again, presented in the setting of Milano Unica, drew an enormous audience of 1700 people filling the auditorium of the Milan Fair felt like a first meeting among future friends – a moment when the creative director wanted to address the audience without the filters of the press, making his voice heard and appearing in front of everyone, indiscriminately, in his smiling frankness. «There is this idea in fashion that you have to be alone, not talk to anyone,» said De Sarno at one point, «I hope not to do that. Think about the boredom of going to parties and staying in the VIP area while others are having fun. I want to be there among you; that's how I am.» But De Sarno's description of his approach and, above all, his Gucci was much more detailed: while talking about the brand, the designer also revealed himself with an openness that, frankly, is not seen often in the fashion industry, where every statement is carefully screened by PR and many creative directors aim to build a reserved, almost hieratic aura. But that's not the case with De Sarno, who also said: «I don't know if I have talent, but I recognize passion. I want to maintain this side of me, this curiosity of mine.»

The talk began with the introduction of an exclusive documentary on the making of Gucci's first show, followed by a passionate presentation by Sabato De Sarno, who didn't spare a bit of humor either: «Today, people are more interested in watching a fashion show through a mobile phone. They fight for front-row seats and then watch the show on the phone screen. I would say to them, 'Stay at home. I'll send you an iPad that is even bigger than a phone.' Instead, give a chance to people who have passion, who are eager, who are interested, who are attentive,» he joked, emphasizing the importance of experiencing fashion authentically. The designer then addressed the distinction between those who want to work in fashion and those who truly love fashion. «I surround myself with people who love fashion,» he declared, emphasizing his love for creating garments and attention to detail. With passion, he shared his approach to fashion, explaining: «I like making clothes, I like touching them. I like changing the collars, I like changing the lengths. I like talking about fits, choosing embroideries.» The talk also touched on the theme of opportunities in the fashion industry. De Sarno spoke about his commitment to sharing success and opening doors to new talents: «This great opportunity that I have, I would like to give it back,» emphasizing that, in addition to technical skills, what he looks for in his collaborators is curiosity. In creating his collections, «the biggest goal is to have people who desire that thing. Desire is the foundation of this work. Or there's the 'wow' of the fashion show, then ten minutes later for another show, there's another 'wow,' and then you go home and don't remember anything,» he said.

During the talk, De Sarno shared his previous work experiences, including collaborations with fashion houses such as Valentino «where I learned to work together»; at Prada, where he learned the importance of pitch and sartorial rigor, and at Dolce & Gabbana, where he understood how to make knitwear sexy (talents that, judging by the first two collections for Gucci, have borne fruit). He also highlighted the value of teamwork and sharing ideas, encouraging collaboration and mutual listening: «I would like the people working at Gucci to feel Gucci as a project that is also theirs,» he said in response to a question from the audience. A method based on listening and human relationships that extends to celebrities and brand ambassadors, going beyond mere representation on Instagram: De Sarno recounted a dinner in Rome with Paul Mescal, one of the brand's new ambassadors, «for me, it's important that the people who are part of the new Gucci also have some kind of relationship with me. I want to know who they are because I have to share values, an aesthetic with these people. Celebrities are like collaborators to me; we have to like each other. It's not that you only please me, I pay you, and then we take a photo,» he joked.

Finally, De Sarno touched on the delicate topic of online bullying, sharing his experience and emphasizing the importance of maintaining a positive and authentic approach on social media: «There have been a lot of haters. I had experienced bullying when I was younger, for my sexuality, and as an adult, when you're the creative director of Gucci suddenly, anyone can say something about you. I am fortunate that I have my certainties; I am a fulfilled person thanks to the things I have done in my life, and this has made me strong against comments and insults as well [...]. At that moment, I thought of a person who might be less strong than me or has less certainty than me or has weaknesses that are not yet resolved. Think about how much this can hurt. I use Instagram in a happy way. It's a way to share things I believe in, to show images I like. Many people use it to hurt, also because Instagram somewhat hides you,» he said. The Creative Director concluded with a personal note, revealing that «Gucci must be part of my life, and I'm happy that it is, but it must not be my life. My life is something else.» He expressed the desire to continue experimenting and remain free in his approach to fashion, encouraging everyone to follow their passions: «Ideas have no budget,» he reminded the audience before indulging in a final crowd bath at the end of the talk, crossing the room and taking many selfies with all his fans.