'The Sculptures' by Jacquemus is an ode to sophistication

You surely couldn't have missed the information following the tidal wave of posts on social media: yes, the latest Jacquemus fashion show took place in Saint-Paul-de-Vence yesterday. In this southern setting to which Jacquemus is deeply attached, the Spring-Summer 2024 collection was unveiled, exuding a more mature sensuality and femininity. In contrast to the extravagance of the previous show at Versailles, where models in Marie-Antoinette-style tutus, XXS puffy bloomers, and sheer negligees paraded, this season was marked by elegant sobriety. Titled Les Sculptures, the latest collection cleverly showcased a meticulous exploration of volumes and cuts, paying homage to the artist Alberto Giacometti. So, it's no surprise that the fashion rendezvous took place at the Fondation Maeght, attracting the crème de la crème. Here's everything to remember from this eventful runway.

An Evocative Setting

The choice of the Fondation Maeght as the stage for revealing this collection was not random. "I am obsessed with design," emphasized the creator, born in the south of France. "I wanted to showcase a collection that tells who I am today, what I love, what fascinates me," revealed the creator. By choosing this iconic venue of modern art, where the creations of major 20th-century artists such as Joan Miró, Alexander Calder, and Georges Braque are housed, Jacquemus orchestrated a bold fusion of art and fashion, thereby inscribing his name alongside these masters. The Fondation Maeght served as a backdrop, adding conceptual depth and creative energy to the collection. Sculptures, paintings, and installations became true co-stars, silently observing the creator's silhouettes strutting and lending a palpable artistic ambiance to the presentation. The inspiration drawn from Giacometti's works was the driving force behind the collection. The models' silhouettes agilely reflected the artist's slender and tapered forms, with a touch of bon-chic bon-genre enhanced by the characteristic Jacquemus solar glow.

A Sophisticated Wardrobe

With Les Sculptures, Jacquemus successfully merged Giacometti's universe with bourgeois clichés. He presents a 2.0 version of the Jacquemus girl, now a woman drawing inspiration from the 1950s wardrobe. The color palette is limited to a few shades - black, white, beige, flannel gray. The precisely designed pieces stand out with simple and symmetrical cuts. The dresses, in deep black and vibrant red hues, highlight broad shoulders and defined waists, evoking mature femininity. High-waisted trousers feature impeccable pleating, artistic details such as tubular sleeves and geometric structures, creating a balance between modernity and classic elegance. As a nod to previous collections, the creator also plays with miniatures, featuring very short skirts, minimalist dresses, and fitted dress-blazers. The pieces also pay homage to artistic eccentricity with elements of transparency, distorted edges, and touches of horsehair. For both Jacquemus men and women, accessories are in line with the overall aesthetic. Bags boast a sleek and modern design or stand out with their unique structure. The focus shifts to footwear, opting for pointed heels, loafers, revisiting the slides-and-socks combo, innovating with double-heeled sandals or the famous revamped "zizi."

A Five-Star Cast and Guests

This season, we also witnessed a second runway show: that of the high-profile guests, both on the catwalk and in the audience. Not that we are not used to it, but this year, the Jacquemus team seems to have outdone themselves. Among the new recruits were Julia Roberts, Kylie Jenner and her daughter Stormi, as well as the interpreter of Charlotte York in Sex and the City, Kristin Davis. Iconic. On the French front row, a slew of French artists such as Tiakola, Gazo, and Shay could be seen. An audience underlining Jacquemus's global appeal and its ability to attract the attention of prominent figures. The power of social media was also evident in promoting the runway, flooded with posts highlighting the highlights of the show, thereby solidifying the reputation of the always independent label as the queen of communication on platforms. Enthusiasm exceeding the boundaries of fashion, serving as inspiration to others, as seen in the recent sketch by comedian Malik Bentalha published on his YouTube channel. The Les Sculptures collection perfectly embodies the exceptional evolution of the Jacquemus brand, reflecting the maturity achieved by the label over the years. An evolution not only aesthetic but also structural, with a company now boasting three hundred and fifty employees and aiming for half a billion by 2025.