The avant-garde Y2K of the PUMA Monster

New year, new silhouette. Riding the wave of nostalgia for the early 2000s that shaped many of us, Puma has resurrected the iconic Mostro silhouette for 2024, marking a revival of this avant-garde design after years of relative dormancy. The Mostro, named in Italian, introduced an aesthetic that surpassed traditional sneakers in a decade where exploring a new concept of modernity, detached from the most recognizable elements of the past, was essential for everyone. The '90s had ended, the Y2K anxieties had passed, and a new era was dawning – the year of the Puma Mostro was also the year of Matrix, Existenz, and the new Star Wars trilogy, reflecting the anticipation of a new era in cinema. The return of the Mostro captures the essence of the original; we now live in a post-modern and, above all, a post-sneaker world, where even the idea of traditional laces seems outdated, and the silhouette must simply be new. It's almost ironic that this futuristic look comes from the past, appropriately updated with modern materials, featuring a classic mesh upper, metallic silver Puma Formstrip overlays, and an elastic strap closure. Unveiled through a campaign set in New York, the Mostro will hit the market on January 13, undoubtedly reopening the doors to a healthy dose of nostalgia in a year that promises to be pivotal for the German brand with collaborations, releases, and throwbacks from their archive. But what is the origin of the Mostro?

Originally introduced in 1999, conceived by the mind of Puma's historic designer Peter Schmidt (and, as noted by Grailed, suggested by brand archivist Helmut Fischer), the Puma Mostro emerged as an innovative fusion of two unlikely sports: the '60s sprint spikes and the '80s surf shoes. This unconventional marriage resulted in a distinctly unique design with a dimpled rubber sole and an asymmetrical velcro closure. The Mostro's versatility was underscored by the variety of materials used, which, after the initial success of the first model, became truly extensive. Versions in mesh, leather, ripstop, linen, suede, and perforated leather were produced. The experimental nature of the Mostro allowed Puma to break away from footwear traditionally geared towards sports, propelling the brand into the world of fashion.

And perhaps the reason why collective imagination in recent years loves to revisit footwear from that era is precisely the prevailing sense of experimentation at that time: from mega skate shoes like Etnies and Osiris to super high rave shoes, and iconic Prada America’s Cup that initiated a dialogue between the runway and sportswear, to the silver Onitsuka Tiger, almost all futuristic Oakley designs, Nike TNs, and even somewhat bizarre, now relegated to the past, like Heelys with wheels for sliding on the floor and getting hurt. Puma was riding high on creativity during that time (another iconic silhouette, the now hard-to-find Satori Lux, came a few years later for those who remember), and in a period where sneaker brands were primarily targeting sports enthusiasts, the Mostro set Puma apart, venturing into the fashion circles and becoming a symbol of the brand's innovative approach to design, pushing boundaries, and embracing the avant-garde. Let's remember that Puma had already collaborated the previous year with Jil Sander, a link-up that would continue in the following years, producing a sneaker for Alexander McQueen a few years later.

As the Mostro gained acclaim, it also caught the attention of pop culture giants. Those were also the years of Helmut Lang's colorful, modular, and reattachable garments, experimenting with new synthetic materials and futuristic constructions. It was also the time of Galliano's sporty revolution at Dior, with exuberant and colorful pieces inspired by the wardrobes of the new generation growing up in the midst of the hip-hop and RnB fever that would practically never stop. After the grunge-filled '90s, there was a need for color, new materials, and dynamism. The endorsement of Bjork, as well as Madonna during her 2001 Drowned World Tour, propelled the Mostro to global fame. Its debut on the big screen alongside Scarlett Johansson and Ewan McGregor in the 2005 film The Island expanded its cultural appeal and solidified its status as a cultural phenomenon. Over time, trend tides changed: on one side, the gradual consolidation of streetwear repertoire, finding its decisive and more cohesive expression with Virgil Abloh in the following decade, marked the return to the mainstream; on the other, the emerging alternative/hipster movement preferred focusing on past silhouettes and dress shoes. The futurism of design, strangely, became out of place in an era where a new normal was sought.

But even that tide changes: after the binge of more or less conventional sneakers replicated in every conceivable colorway, today we are back to dreaming of the future and rediscovering what was forgotten from the past – commonly referred to as an archive. Sock sneakers, for example, are making their comeback; tech-oriented shoes are among the most popular models, and even the classic Mostro continues to enjoy the love of celebrities. Seen recently on Skepta's Instagram profile and worn by A$AP Rocky at the 2023 Las Vegas Grand Prix demonstrated the enduring appeal of this iconic silhouette. The Mostro, appearing in a mid version in a Black Panther-inspired capsule in 2018, has even graced the runway: Ottolinger brought back the silhouette in the form of a boot, while other adapted models from the brand confirmed the allure that various luxury brands are starting to feel towards the brand's archive. "In the fashion field, when we choose partners, we always have to establish a dialogue first," Heiko Desens, the current creative director of the brand, told us last year. "We opened up the collaboration game in the high fashion sector with very avant-garde brands like McQueen. They were all skeptical, wondering what we were doing, but now they look back and appreciate those releases. We want the consumer to perceive Puma as almost an underdog." Our prediction? If '70s-vibe sneakers dominated 2023, it might be the futuristic aesthetic that dominates the newly started year.