The 5 most memorable shows of 2023

Every year in fashion is defined by its standout shows. Some years shine brightly (’94 and ’98 are fondly remembered), while others are forgettable – but each year has its seasons and style. In a context marked by a craze for quiet luxury, the spread of a new normal, and a general lack of massive creative risks, this year's shows maintained their grandeur. Our choices were those with impactful shows: both in terms of overall spectacle and the aesthetic outcome of the collections presented. So here are the five most memorable shows of 2023, and it's up to you readers to decide the best one by voting on our social channels.

1. Louis Vuitton SS24

Pharrell Williams' triumphant entrance into fashion history was orchestrated on the Pont Neuf, transformed into a titanic runway filled with stars, journalists, buyers, and the world's top designers. Beyond showcasing the world's most profitable brand, it marked a significant transition done exceptionally well. The entire show concept aimed to connect Paris to Virginia, echoing memories of the Princess Anne High School in Virginia Beach, crucial for the Creative Director's formation, and the path that led him to today, as stated in the brand's show notes.

2. Undercover SS24

In a fashion month filled with beauty but few surprises, Jun Takahashi's decision to close the show with lantern skirts containing small ecosystems and live butterflies inside was remarkable. The ethics of using real butterflies stirred controversy, despite the brand taking all necessary measures for ethical and minimal harm treatment. Regardless, the ingeniously crafted pieces, with embroidered tiny insects on transparent fabrics, and angelic wings poetically caged in tulle, created a surreal, unforgettable vision that many will struggle to forget.

3. Miu Miu FW23

If the audience thought Miu Miu had its moment of glory with the legendary raw hem set, nobody was prepared for this show. Essentially, it brought officecore into the conversation, exemplifying the appreciation for stereotypical office uniforms transformed into acts of transgression: twin sets worn without pants, layers of retro-transparent dresses, the sweatshirt that lives rent-free in the minds of so many customers, the collaboration with Church’s, nerdy glasses, and the return of Mia Goth to the runway after a grace year that transformed her into the new icon of indie horror. No crumbs left.

4. JW Anderson SS24

Jonathan Anderson's work, wherever it manifests, is always a sight to behold. This collection was no exception: buttery textures, cargo transformed into balloon pants, draped dresses, sparkling like nail polish, olive-colored leather nails that seem edible, feathered bombers. But the most absurd idea, strangely simple but perhaps complicated in execution, was the opening clay outfit – a childhood flash that transforms into a fascinating metaphor for Anderson's method and aesthetic, always playful and self-ironic even at the height of technical difficulty.

5. Marni FW23

Marni's shows always have something unconventional about them - but the one in Tokyo was perhaps grander than the others. From the bulging outerwear signed by artist Dingyun Zhang, which ushered in a collection based on intense, acid colors, to the venue entirely covered in white sheets, the orchestra with its strings, drums and synthesizers provided the audience with a show that was as eccentric as it was memorable.