The design director of Prada and Miu Miu has quit

Within the Prada Group, things are changing slowly but inexorably. On the back of an excellent financial performance, fueled by growing sales and a large number of new investments, the group has managed to maintain the confidence of markets and consumers through a cautious but profound restructuring of its governance and the arrival of Raf Simons as Prada's co-creative director three years ago - a great result given the high volatility of the markets at this historical stage when the geography of the luxury industry is evolving. But over the weekend came new news: Fabio Zambernardi, Design Director of Prada and Miu Miu for more than two decades but linked to the Group for more than forty years, will leave his position by the end of the year, and the upcoming fashion month shows that are about to begin could most likely be his last. The Prada Group has not commented on the news, but sources cited by WWD suggest that the separation is amicable. At most, it remains to be seen what will change for the two brands now that the historic Design Director is gone.

How important is the figure of a Design Director?

The role of a Design Director like Zambernardi is crucial in the development of a successful collection. While the creative director is generally the most senior position in a brand, after the CEO, his or her role differs significantly from that of a Design Director: the creative director is responsible for envisioning and communicating the overall brand identity, while the Design Director specializes in translating that vision into tangible, innovative, and most importantly saleable designs through the coordination of different design teams. The success of a fashion brand often depends on the collaboration and synergy between these two key roles. Zembernardi had started working with Prada in 1981, before becoming footwear director in '97, Design Fashion Coordinator in '99, and finally Design Director in 2002. His meteoric rise (and his behind-the-scenes tenure in the Prada empire) testify to the enormous importance of his role in recent decades directing the design teams at both Prada and Miu Miu, in the definition of whose identity Zambernardi played a key role.

What's Zamberardi future?

After forty years of an honored career, and after becoming one of the most crucial players in the less public facing side of fashion, it would be understandable if Zamberardi had decided to retire just as Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada have already relinquished their co-CEO appointments in anticipation of an upcoming succession. Yet Design Directors have had their moment this year: Sabato De Sarno held the position for years before becoming creative director of Gucci, and the same can be said of Stefano Gallici and Simone Bellotti, current creative directors of Ann Demeluemeester and Bally after years of working in pure design; and the same can be said of Peter Hawkings who, before ascending the throne of Tom Ford, was its Design Director for fourteen years. Nothing rules out, then, that Zamberardi may have left his current role for an even more prestigious position-after all, there is no shortage of brands looking for creative directors at the moment.