The story of Matthew Williams' favorite watch

Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak watch has long been considered an icon in the world of luxury watches. This watch was recently remodeled by Matthew Williams for a collaboration with 1017 Alyx 9SM that follows up on the one the Williams-founded brand signed in 2019 with MAD Paris, which was so successful that it led to a direct link-up between the two. To be fair, perhaps more than any other watch manufacturer, Audemars Piguet has experimented with the format of collaborations in recent decades: there was the Audemars Piguet Offshore co-signed by Arnold Schwarznegger for the film End of Days in '99; then the 2006 one that was customized by Jay-Z, which for many represents the Cupid's arrow that sparked the love between the Swiss watch manufacturer and the hip-hop world later also continued by collaborating with Quincy Jones and Mark Ronson. Other notable collaborations were with LeBron James, who signed a limited edition model in 2015 and then appeared in a celebratory campaign in 2018; with Lionel Messi, Michael Schumacher, and Serena Williams.

The brand is also close to the art world, counting link-ups with Damien Hirst and Richard Orlinski over the years; and with film, through its recent collaboration with Marvel. None of these collaborations, however, has had the media impact of the Audemars Piguet model that MAD Paris customized with Matthew Williams five years ago - a media impact that, by Williams' own admission, was the basis for the more official collaboration that 1017 Alyx 9SM and the Swiss watchmaker have now entered into. The version of the Royal Oak that Williams conceived in 2019 and has now further refined, from the "dumb" brushed metal dial, has quickly become one of the most interesting and imitated of those seen in recent years-but it could not have gotten anywhere without the iconicity of Audemars Piguet's original Royal Oak.

The history of Audemar Piguet's Royal Oak

There was a time when classic mechanical watch manufacturers, mostly operating in Switzerland, had to produce more robust watches for those who intended to use them in sports activities. But by the early 1970s, the advent of Japanese quartz technology, which also triggered a supply crisis of the precious mineral on a global scale, threatened the supremacy of mechanical watches. In this era of change, Audemars Piguet, founded in 1875, was faced with the challenge of redefining luxury watchmaking to counter cheap, durable quartz watches that were beginning to flood the market. To avoid imminent collapse, the company decided to dare and try to create a radically new model. Inspired by feedback from the Italian market, the manufacturer set to work to create a revolutionary steel watch that seamlessly blended sportiness and elegance. The young and already celebrated watch designer Gerald Genta, who had already worked for the biggest names in Swiss watchmaking, was chosen for the task. The design of the Royal Oak drew inspiration from a diving helmet, with its octagonal bezel secured by eight visible gold hexagonal screws and a dial adorned with a distinctive blue petit tapisserie pattern. This slim but incredibly durable watch, with a case diameter of 39 mm and a profile of 7 mm, was complemented by a complex stainless steel bracelet that made the model look almost like a man's piece of jewelry.

The watch was marketed as an ode to steel, the metal-symbol of the 21st century; those visible screws in 18-carat gold that had so scandalized traditionalists became over time a symbol of safety, of solidity as well as to its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal; its movement was the thinnest in the world, each of its components marked with a serial number that gave the impression of a mechanism that would display its excellence for generations, passing from father to son through entire family trees. An advertisement was produced in the 1980s that anticipated the objections of those who believed the watch was too expensive to be made of steel. «Would you buy a Rembrandt for its canvas?» the ad asked. «The value of the Royal Oak is more a consequence of the way the metal has been used, the design reflecting its strength and character, than the material itself. In any sphere of artistry and craftsmanship, as I pointed out to my friend, materials alone do not make a masterpiece. What matters is the way they're used. And who uses them».

The introduction of the Caliber 2120 movement in 1967, a collaborative effort between Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, laid the foundation for the exceptional Royal Oak movement. This ultra-flat automatic movement, beating at 19,800 vibrations per hour and measuring just 3.05 mm in height, was a technical marvel that matched the demands of a sports watch.  The name "Royal Oak" was a tribute to British naval history, referring to a series of British Royal Navy ships, in keeping with the octagonal bezel design. In 1972, at the Basel Fair, the Royal Oak was unveiled. The very high (for the time) price of 3300 Swiss francs, higher than a gold watch, positioned the Royal Oak as a symbol of haute horology, proving that prestigious watches could be made of steel without resorting to precious metals. Despite initial skepticism about its unconventional design, visible gasket and screws, and integrated bracelet, the attraction and quality of the Royal Oak gradually won over the public, making it Audemars Piguet's most significant icon over the years. The Royal Oak's journey did not end with its introduction. The iconic A series of reference 5402, recognizable by the initials AP placed above the 6, remains a collector's favorite. Audemars Piguet continued to innovate, introducing variations, precious metals, leather and rubber straps, and new complications, including Caliber 2120/2800 with Perpetual Calendar, the world's thinnest.

How the collaboration with Matthew Williams came about

Il pezzo unico della collezione destinato all'asta di beneficienza a Tokyo

Il pezzo unico della collezione destinato all'asta di beneficienza a Tokyo

Il pezzo unico della collezione destinato all'asta di beneficienza a Tokyo

Il pezzo unico della collezione destinato all'asta di beneficienza a Tokyo

Il pezzo unico della collezione destinato all'asta di beneficienza a Tokyo

Il pezzo unico della collezione destinato all'asta di beneficienza a Tokyo

The collaboration between Matthew Williams and Audemars Piguet is not only a creative endeavor, but a culmination of personal memories dating back to the designer's adolescence. From a young age, Audemars Piguet had a special place in Williams' heart, influenced by his father's best friend, a vintage watch dealer. Over time, Williams developed a deep appreciation for watches and the art behind them. As he grew up, his connection to the brand continued to evolve. Williams recalled, speaking to Interview Magazine, and having received an inexpensive watch from his father upon graduation from high school, whenever Williams could afford the expense, he went to his father's friend to trade in his previous watch for a new model, gradually climbing the ladder of quality and beauty, with the idea of buying a gold Royal Oak always in mind. This sentimental foundation laid the groundwork for Williams' affinity for Audemars Piguet. His collaboration with the brand is not just a creative alliance, but a fusion of personal nostalgia, a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, and a shared passion for watchmaking.

In addition, the collaboration between Matthew Williams and Audemars Piguet marks a significant milestone as Audemars' first entry into the fashion world. Unlike previous collaborations, Williams has enjoyed unprecedented creative freedom, resulting in a collection of five distinctive watches. Among them is a one-of-a-kind timepiece destined for auction, the proceeds of which will benefit Kids in Motion and Right to Play, two charitable organizations that benefit disadvantaged children. The range includes two Royal Oaks and two Royal Oak Offshore, as well as the one-of-a-kind piece. With prices ranging from $73,500 to $111,500. Williams has done away with traditional subdial markings, opting for a more minimalist approach and using a "vertical satin finish" instead of the famous tapisserie dial motifs. The collaboration features an elegant juxtaposition of yellow and white gold, while the one-of-a-kind piece combines yellow gold and stainless steel in homage to his brand's decidedly contemporary aesthetic.