What to expect from Phoebe Philo's collection coming out in September

Two years ago, the most revered designer in contemporary fashion announced a comeback in a big way after years of inactivity. «I can not wait to reconnect with the public and people around the world» Phoebe Philo had declared, speaking of a project we were never to hear from again after that moment. At least not until last February, when an unexpected announcement reignited the hopes of all her followers and made the launch of her eponymous brand official: «We will open enrolment in July 2023 and we can not wait to get back to you.» And now, with July just around the corner, the first rumors are starting to leak out, revealing the fate of a new, semi-independent brand (LVMH is a minority investor) ready to wreak havoc in the industry.

According to WWD, the collection will consist of ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewelry, eyewear, and footwear and will include over 150 designs, which will be available from a dedicated online shop from September, with initial shipments to the UK, Europe, and the US. Rumour has it that Philo is playing it safe by revisiting the hallmarks of her proven success and relying on an old acquaintance - Daria Werbowy, a Canadian supermodel with whom the designer has worked for several campaigns during her time at Céline - as the face of the new brand. Some time ago, the British designer had stated that she would create clothes and accessories of «great quality and exceptional design».

The conditions are certainly promising. Consider the large community of 'philosophiles' (an ironic name created for the designer's most ardent fans), who over the years have opened blogs on all social platforms to express their grief following Céline's retirement in 2017 (iconically, the Instagram page titled Old Céline is a veritable archive of her creations). Over the years, the increasing search for her signature Céline garments on resale platforms has driven up their original price by up to 30%. In contrast to the loud trends of the 2000s, Phoebe Philo has indeed redefined the concept of sophistication with her 'contemporary minimalism', where simplicity and comfort go hand in hand with clean and austere lines, and has imprinted herself in the hearts of all nostalgic women of the time. Part of the success is surely due to the 'Phoebe Philo character' who, by shunning all social media and staying away from gossip, has naturally built an aura of mystery around herself and her creations that has increased her cult following. We'll just have to wait for the first delivery to see if it was worth the wait.