The philosophy of logos according to Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton

The colossal event that took place last night on the Pont Neuf heralded a new era for Louis Vuitton. Between celebrating Virgil Abloh's legacy and a collection that continues the Chicago designer's stylistic direction, Pharrell Williams made his contribution to the Maison's imagination despite the high expectations. A loud, maximalist, playful contribution that flirts with streetwear tropes and takes them to extremes. First and foremost, the monogram in all its declinations and opulence, from the classic LV to Damier canvas reimagined in a pixelated key, the dream of every kid who grew up on bread and Minecraft.

Monogram LV

The classic woven and embossed monogram "LV", the most famous trademark since its creation by Georges Vuitton in 1896, can be found on all luggage, from the Keepall Bandoulière to the classic rectangular 'train' model with silver inlays, but also on backpacks, fast bags and an elegant leather jacket in mahogany. And if Williams made a canonical use in this case, choosing classic colours, in 2003 it was up to Japanese artist Takashi Murakami to deliver a multi-coloured declination. Murakami, known for his neo-pop works, reproduced the 'LV' logo in 33 different colours on white or black canvas. A very popular line in the early 2000s, it was unfortunately discontinued in 2015.

The Damier Checkerboard Pattern

Garments and accessories with the LV monogram are contrasted with the Damier Canvas pattern, designed by Damier Ebène in 1998, which became an instant classic. Like a synaesthesia of yellow, bright red, green and burgundy, the pattern dominates the garments and recalls Marc Jacobs' ubiquitous use of it during his time at Louis Vuitton, when his creations were dominated by chequerboard motifs. Brand new for the fashion house is the reincorporation of the monogram in a Minecraft key, along the lines of JW Anderson's Pixels at Loewe. The domier in Atari 8-bit, designed by American pixel artist ET, digitises the motif, which appears on tailoring details, pyjamas and in denim. The grain of the damier canvas is reproduced thanks to a three-dimensional pigment print on leather, similar to outerwear and tailoring. The green suit is a vague homage to Keita Sugiura's 2009 camouflage jacket (created in collaboration with Moncler and presented with Sarah Andelman at Colette).

The Damoflage

Damoflage, on the other hand, which combines Louis Vuitton's traditional Damier motif with camouflage to reflect two different stylistic contexts, is used in three shades for accessories, clothing, indigo denim, pyjama silhouettes, knitwear and fur interlinings, as well as in the tailoring jacquard. The iconic Louis Vuitton motif becomes a distinctive element in Pharrell Williams' personal style lexicon.