Don't underestimate Onitsuka Tiger

Before the Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 became a Gen Z fetish as an indie alternative to the viral adidas Samba, the rebirth of the Japanese brand had been in motion for some time. The FW23 collection, unveiled in Milan yesterday, was the culmination of a rebranding process that began in 2017 when Andrea Pompilio, who has been with the brand since 2013 and its creative director since 2017, transported its heritage - Prada, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Calvin Klein and Saint Laurent - into the world of athleisure. Streetwear yes, a word that has almost taken on a pejorative meaning in recent years, the result of too many trainers and a trend that has reached its sell-by date, but which is resurgent with Onitsuka in a new guise, in a typically Japanese minimalist elegance reminiscent of tailoring.

Dressing in layers is a fundamental part of Japanese culture. Putting on the kimono is a ritual performed by layering garments of different weights from very light underwear to the actual kimono, which is then closed with a wide belt. Overcoats in pressed bouclé wool or chenille with a faux fur effect, large jackets with shawl lapels, oversized felt jackets with three or four buttons that can also be worn overlapping make the silhouette voluminous but never bulky. The lined down jackets, on the other hand, are the result of a collaboration with Zanter, a Japanese brand that is a pioneer in the production of technical mountain clothing. The silhouette is completed by baggy trousers in nylon and felt, either long or in a Bermuda version in chiffon with large pockets and visible boxers. Tight-fitting suits accentuate the volume, sweatshirts and hoodies give way to turtlenecks in mohair knits, chiffon shirts or low-cut tank tops. Dresses are flowing, both short and very long, in georgette and jersey, draped with sashes or cords that shape the silhouette. The colour palette is minimalist, starting with the signature black and joined by greys, beiges and bright orange. The result represents an important step for the brand, a collection for men and women that retains its active spirit but is much more focused on an urban and tailored aesthetic.

Footwear is also designed for the city: ankle boots and high leather boots or trainers that evolve into walking shoes hybridised by maxi midsoles. Each model features the new Onitsuka Tiger tonne sur tonne logo, part of the rebranding that introduced bolder lettering and highly polished packaging in yellow and black, the brand's signature colours, a legacy of Kill Bill and the cyclical success of Mexico 66. In the iconic model's wake, the brand founded in 1949 by Kihachiro Onitsuka counts more than 52 billion views on TikTok, a completely spontaneous virality resulting from a rediscovered taste for trainers with a slim silhouette and a distinguished past. And so Onitsuka Tiger has become one of Gen Z's most popular brands. Thank you to Pompilio's expert guidance, the clothes now have the affordable cool we all need in our wardrobe. Could this be the beginning of a new era of tailored streetwear?