How does the haute couture auction market work?

For many, Vivienne Westwood is a rococo corset, the Sovereign Globe of crown jewels, the colour red, nanny pins, and still the Sex Pistols, the irreverence of her early boutiques, environmental activism. The imagery of the designer, sometimes elegantly packaged, sometimes intentionally patched, has over time built an outwardly grumpy universe that at its core retains an inclusive and smiling positivity, looking at social problems as obstacles to be faced, not dodged. While projects initiated by Westwood against climate change continue to evolve over time, even after her passing, her clothes remain timeless, designs and fabrics seemingly immobile. Seemingly, we say, because her legacy is well kept alive by designers like Marc Jacobs - who paid tribute to the designer in his latest SS23 show, citing lines created by Westwood in his looks with great respect - and by the work of museums and auction houses, which, with the utmost dedication to maintaining her most precious pieces, transform them into works of art. Over a year after Dame Vivienne Westwood's passing, Christie's Auctions is launching a sale of the designer's personal wardrobe. Vivienne Westwood: The Personal Collection retraces the life of the English designer through over two hundred lots exploring some of the most decisive moments of her career, in fashion as well as in environmental activism, starting from 1983. Christie's has stated that the proceeds from the sale will be donated to the associations Vivienne Foundation, Amnesty International, and Médecins Sans Frontières, as well as to The Big Picture - Vivienne's Playing Cards, a project of the Vivienne Foundation to raise funds for Greenpeace. In an interview with The Guardian, collections director Adrian Hume-Sayer commented: «This sale is unprecedented and will always be unmatched. The personal wardrobe of the greatest British designer of all time is truly incredible. It's a once-in-a-lifetime thing.» But how do you put a monetary value on an artist's personal clothes? 

«As with all other forms of art, when a designer passes away, their work increases in value,» explained Lucy Bishop, specialist and auctioneer at Kerry Taylor Auctions, «the increase in value, however, is not always as great as one might think.» Founded in 2003, the auction house was launched by Kerry Taylor specialising in vintage costumes and establishing itself from the outset as a world-renowned pioneer in the field. Among the numerous high-profile auctions she has worked on, Bishop highlights the sales of the wardrobes of significant figures such as Princess Diana, Björk, Amy Winehouse, and Winston Churchill, as well as the biennial "Passion for Fashion" sales, which offer clients a selection of contemporary and vintage haute couture for display. For Bishop and the auction house, the passing of a great designer like Westwood certainly represents a bitter event, but also a greater amount of work. In recent years, following the passing of renowned designers such as Issey Miyake, Karl Lagerfeld, and Hubert de Givenchy, it has been museums and companies like Kerry Taylor's and Christie's that have had the task of honoring their work, offering the public and potential investors the opportunity to admire their legacy up close. «When a significant designer dies, we have a large number of people contacting us to sell their pieces,» explained Lucy Bishop, «but Vivienne Westwood's early works have always been sought after and of great value.»

A good Vivienne Westwood corset, 'Portrait' collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91. Sold: £6,000, 2021

A fine Westwood/McLaren 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo) ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1982-83. Sold: £15,000, 2018

A fine Westwood/McLaren 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo) ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1982-83. Sold: £15,000, 2018

A rare complete Vivienne Westwood 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82. Sold: £13,000, 2011

According to past auction data, the significant interest that the Gen Z has shown for Punk style for years has significantly helped to increase the value of Westwood's designs, thanks to their popularity on social media where media like Japanese anime Nana - which tells the story of a punk band entirely dressed in Vivienne Westwood - has been hugely successful. «In the last two years, Vivienne Westwood has seen an increase in demand for her 1980s and 1990s models, especially for her corsets,» explained Bishop, «It's been wonderful to see a new generation discover and appreciate her work.» Following the strong demand, the designer's pieces have undergone a significant price increase, which according to Bishop's forecasts is destined to develop even further. «It will be interesting to see what results the Westwood pieces will achieve» she said. The starting price of garments designed by the British designer, like all the clothes and accessories that have been auctioned by Kerry Taylor in the past, will be determined «based on market experience and realistic expectations.»

Jordan's fine and rare Westwood/McLaren Let It Rock 'Venus' t-shirt, 1975. Sold: £22,000, 2015

Jordan's Westwood/McLaren SEX Original black leather fetish capelet and leather skirt, 1975. Sold: £2,800. June 2015.

A good and rare Vivienne Westwood lace-knit wool dress, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter 1994-95. Sold: £4,200 hammer

A good and rare Vivienne Westwood lace-knit wool dress, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter 1994-95. Sold: £4,200 hammer

A good and rare Vivienne Westwood lace-knit wool dress, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter 1994-95. Sold: £4,200 hammer

A Vivienne Westwood flocked tulle dress, 'Salon' collection, Spring-Summer 1992. Sold: £4,500 hammer, Dec 2020

A Vivienne Westwood flocked tulle dress, 'Salon' collection, Spring-Summer 1992. Sold: £4,500 hammer, Dec 2020

A Vivienne Westwood flocked tulle dress, 'Salon' collection, Spring-Summer 1992. Sold: £4,500 hammer, Dec 2020

As in the art world, Kerry Taylor's and Christie's sell clothes on behalf of third parties, making it difficult for them to predict what will come into their hands in the coming months, and especially who will be lucky enough to take it to their studio - although the auction of Vivienne Westwood's personal items to be held this summer in London will be curated by the designer's husband, Andreas Kronthaler. Westwood's legacy is vast and has coloured the history of fashion from the 1970s to today with extraordinary originality, driven by a motivating force that touches the lives of few people: rebellion. Summing up her legacy in a few words or images is impossible because her career has been marked by contrasting elements like the extreme elegance of her clothes and the unstoppable tenacity with which the Punk Dame brought subcultures into the limelight of high fashion. What is certain is that, if today we can speak of inclusion even in an elitist and notoriously snobbish environment, if fashion has finally managed to find a space for environmental causes, it's thanks to her. Westwood never stopped believing in a better future, demonstrating it through clothes, protests, and her words, like those quoted by Marc Jacobs in his show dedicated to the late designer: «Fashion improves life, and I think it's a beautiful and generous thing to do for others.»