The dark side of minimalism

Clean cuts, sleek and austere lines, a color palette that indulges grey as the ultimate creative leap: in a flurry of Y2K and bare skin, an ever-growing niche of trendsetters have rediscovered the dark appeal of monkish minimalism. On the Academy Museum Awards red carpet, Julia Roberts appeared on the runway with a radiant smile, in stark contrast to her Thom Brown look, which consisted of a low-cut shirt and black train. Diana Silvers opted for a straight silhouette with a white band at the waist to break the monotony of her monochrome Prada dress, while Tilda Swinton opted for black velvet by Schiaparelli. At the same time, The Cut recently chose Cate Blanchett as Lydia Tár as an example of the style to follow to convey power and success through a "frigid bitch" winter wardrobe. This trend is joined by the growing following of luxurious minimalism, embodied by brands such as The Row and LeMaire, in a range of overpriced, impeccably crafted garments. We may have officially entered the nun-core season.

Diana Silvers at the Academy Museum Awards

Julia Roberts at the Academy Museum Awards

Thom Browne SS22

The Row SS23

LeMarie FW16

Yohij Yamamoto FW19

Although practicing Catholics are essentially an endangered species, the fascination that ecclesiastical icons hold for the imagination of fashion designers has lost none of its vitality. Catholic iconography is ubiquitous, under the vital thrust of the millennium in its most Gothic and desecrating declension: from Nicolò Brognano's crosses for Blumarine in SS23 to Mirror Palais' nave fashion show, via Praying's recent Trinitarian slogans. But by nun-core, I mean that declension of church-core that is inextricably linked to the austere minimalism of the Amish, almost as if it were reminiscent of the uniform of Christ's handmaids - a black cassock and headscarf - while disregarding the religious matrix and symbolism.

An austere, restrained, discreet look, but at the same time authoritative and non-trivial, recalling the aesthetic dimension of nuns' clothing, but in a secular key. In the 1930s, Cristòbal Balenciaga was the first to use the imagery of Spanish clergymen for his all-black collections, paving the way for a branch of fashion that designers would refer to again and again. From JW Anderson's designs before the maximalist turn, mixing headpieces and minimal silhouettes with barely hinted theatrical details, to Narciso Rodriguez's iconic simplicity, to Yohji Yamamoto's FW 2019, where five women appeared veiled in black, also as a sign of provocation in relation to Nike's introduction of the hijab in France. Edgy femininity that exudes strength and is perfectly embodied by contemporary brands such as LeMaire, The Row, Khaite NY and Thom Browne when it abandons all intellectualism.

Jil Sander SS18

Jil Sander SS18

Jil Sander SS18

Cristòbal Balenciaga

Prada SS22

JW Anderson FW17

Cristòbal Balenciaga

Yohij Yamamoto FW19

Yohij Yamamoto FW19

JW Anderson FW16

JW Anderson FW16

JW Anderson FW16

The Row SS23

Prada SS22

Narciso Rodriguez FW16

Narciso Rodriguez FW16

LeMaire FW16

LeMaire FW16

Post-pandemic fashion had rediscovered the beauty of excess, sexiness, eye-catching textures, and skimpy designs, but a reaction is in turn followed by a reaction. After a Fashion Week season where sensationalism ruled and fashion gimmicks like Coperni's spray-on dress displaced gowns, a pink designer opted for a quiet fashion where the construction of the dresses mattered more than color and hype. Writing modest fashion on TikTok has 1.8 billion views with the accompanying hashtag, while on Instagram there are 4.5 million posts. YouTube also has many videos with well over a million views, thanks to modest content creators like Leena Al Ghouti, Maha Gondal, Sahara Yar, Nawal Sari, Leena Snoubar, and Saeedah Haque. A need for simplicity translates into a real need for women to break out of the "nun/whore" dichotomy, sublimating simplicity in clothing without renouncing the avant-garde.