Supreme returns for sale from Dover Street Market

Supreme's expansion also continues among the leading luxury retailers. Yesterday, Dover Street Market announced that it will host the brand and its FW21 collection in new corners dedicated to London, New York and Los Angeles. James Jebbia's brand will be shoulder to shoulder with the giants of international luxury – but its synergy with Dover Street Market and with the empire founded by Rai Kawakubo is nothing new: already in 2018 Supreme and DMS had collaborated on a t-shirt dedicated to the fifth anniversary of the DMS in New York which this year dedicated an installation to the brand. In addition, Supreme and Comme des Garçons have a very long history of collaborations behind them, which was renewed almost annually from 2012 to 2018. 

The decision to bring Supreme into one of the world's leading luxury retailers may indicate both the slow repositioning of the brand which, having found a prominent position within an industrial group such as VF Corp, wants to open up to luxury customers also through ad hoc collaborations such as the one with Yohji Yamamoto, the one with Emilio Pucci or the upcoming one with Loro Piana; but it also marks a partial detachment from the classic Supreme Store format that probably with its huge rows discourages luxury fashion consumers who instead from Dover Street Market can enjoy a customer care and an atmosphere more suited to their tastes. It is no coincidence that the drop of the brand's FW21 collection will take place on the same day online, in the Supreme Stores and from Dover Street Market – as if to signal the common identity of all the different locations.