The CDFA and the British Fashion Council demand a slower and more sustainable industry
With an open letter, British and American designer wish for slower and more sustainable rhythms
Fashion
May 21st, 2020
May 21st, 2020
One of the main consequences of the fashion crisis triggered by the coronavirus pandemic, was an awareness by some of the main fashion players, including Giorgio Armani and Dries Van Noten, about the unsustainability of the current seasonal model that regulates the mechanisms of fashion retail. Today, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the British Fashion Council also joined the debate by publishing a joint message entitled The Fashion Industry's Reset. The document calls for a radical rethink of the way designers and brands conduct their business and present their collections. In particular, the message insists on the fast pace of the industry and the inadequacy of the seasonal model:
For a long time, there have been too many deliveries and too much merchandise generated. With existing inventory stacking up, designers and retailers must also look at the collections cycle and be very strategic about their products and how and when they intend to sell them.[…] A slower pace also offers an opportunity to reduce the stress levels of designers and their teams which in turn will have a positive effect on the overall wellbeing of the industry.
As for the issue of fashion shows, the two institutions have limited themselves to wanting a centralization of the shows in one of the fashion capitals, to avoid unnecessary and exhausting trips for buyers and journalists. Interesting, on this issue, is the fact that the message did not talk about the new digital formats – already experienced by many brands but still surrounded by a certain mistrust. The slowdown in production and the reduction of travel also have an impact on the sustainability factor, the document reads:
Through the creation of less product, with higher levels of creativity and quality, products will be valued and their shelf life will increase. The focus on creativity and quality of products, reduction in travel and focus on sustainabilty [...] will increase the consumer's respect.
It is clear that, while speaking from its independent position, Armani, Van Noten, the CFDA and the British Fashion Council share a common message shared by much of the industry. On the part of the big luxury conglomerates, however, there are no clear answers or voices that support the point of view of those who call for a slower and more sustainable fashion.
