Where is Indian fashion going

The identity of nss magazine lies in the street style. From years we have been covering the so-called minor fashion weeks, to understand and map the trends that develop outside of the big 4 (Milan, New York, Paris and London) and then slowly enter the mainstream fashion. A few weeks ago we received the classic WeTransfer from Abhimanyu Rathore with photos from India Fashion Week, now better known as Lotus makeup India Fashion Week. Looking at the shots, carefully observing the looks and the mood of the fashion week, the peculiarity of the Indian fashion clearly emerges, totally distant from what we are used to seeing both at the big Fashion Weeks and in the smaller ones.

To better understand the identity and the future of Indian fashion, we interviewed Abhimanyu Rathore - blogger and street style photographer for Buzzfeed, Vogue India, Conde Nast Traveler - to understand the present and the future of the fashion made in India.

1. How has the Amazon India Fashion Week (now called Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week) changed in recent years? Which are the most popular brands, both national and international?

2. It's easy to catch the different aesthetic and apparel compared to the "big 4" (NY, London, Paris and Milan). What is in your opinion the most clear differences and how the ‘bigger’ fashion weeks perceived in India?

The mainstream trends/forecasts are no longer followed as the major market still is of Indian ethnic wear and mostly bridals that's how designers make money here. Also Bollywood and celebrity culture plays a major role in dictating fashion here in India. The clear difference between fashion weeks in India and the "big 4"   I feel in terms of collection is that in India it is still very much about the bridal fashion(bridemaids and bridal wear)  which is mostly about indian ethnic wear which includes Sarees and Lehangas (skirt) that's why the collection range is very limited. Designers here do look upto the fashion trends aboard and try to juxtapose it with indian wear most of the times, like these days they are focusing on destination weddings so the collection includes indo-western details also the silhouettes ranges from sarees to bikinis. Also the trends, colors and moods here are still very much defined by the Bollywood (movies and Bollywood celebrities at parties, events, red carpets and most importantly celebrity outfits at the wedding events) very few designers here actually follow the trend forecasts. Also designers here always try to pick up some elements from west like more and more designers are focusing on gender fluid outfits, also now designers like Huemn, Nought One are making street wear look cool on the runway, also the major differrence I see is also about casting unconventional models for the fashion shows which includes androgynous models and also real models with real sizes.

3. How much do tradition and religious influence the trends?

4. Regarding the rise of the streetwear and sneaker, how is Indian fashionistas tackling the trends?

It all started with influencers of instagram, back in the time during 2015 we had very few instagram influerencers in india so International Instagram stars and Pop stars played big role in terms of inspiration. Later on Bollywood celebrities were seen snapped at the airports in athleisure mostly featuring Internationals brands like Balenciaga and Gucci. Before that the airport looks were not that photographed and followed but it later on became a major source of inspiration for Indian fashionistas. Also indian designer labels like Huemn and Dhruv Kapoor made the sporty chic popular among indian audience. And currently Bollywood movie Gully Boy (which is loosely based upon life of a rapper from Slums who made it big) is serving huge role in making streetwear as household fashion trend.

5. What are the most influential Italian brands in India?

6. What's the future of the fashion in India?