Interview with Kei Ninomiya about his Moncler Genius 'Noir' collection

Last month in Florence saw the initiation of Moncler’s highly anticipated Genius project. Based on 7 different contemporary designers collaborating and presenting a special collection each for Moncler, it was inaugurated by none other than the legendary father of streetwear, Hiroshi Fujiwara. This month sees the turn of the next designer in line, Kei Ninomiya, taking over the reins. A protégé of Comme des Garçons founder, Rei Kawakubo, Kei joined CDG in 2008 as a pattern cutter, and five years later launched his own Noir Kei Ninomiya brand under the Comme des Garçons umbrella. As the name suggests, the color black has always fascinated Kei, the void created by its conclusive nature offering space for perpetual rebirth, which he aspires to fill with the deep exploration of certain tailoring techniques and processes.

With an incredible eye for intricacy and a sense of experimentalism which continues through to his Moncler Noir collection, the all-female range features an exploration of wearable geometry, pushing the limits of duvet from both a technical and an aesthetic point of view. Applying painstaking workmanship and fabric manipulation to the garments by multiplying small modules and assembling them into complete forms, the shapes are feminine, defining punk yet romantic silhouettes. The collection was launched at a special event at Dover Street Market in Ginza, Tokyo on Tuesday. We had the chance to attend and get a further insight into the collection through an interview with the designer himself. See the picture recap of the event and read our interview below:

Photo credit: Kenta Iriguchi

nss interview with Kei Ninomiya:

1. Can you tell us a little bit about how the Moncler Genius collaboration came about and what intrigued you about being a part of it?

Moncler came to us with this opportunity. I was delighted to be able to work with such a rich respectful heritage who has firmly noticed the standing position in luxury down-wear market.

2. When doing a collection for a brand with such a rich heritage as Moncler’s, where and how do you start?

I always start with a research of their iconic items.

3. Tell us about the design inspiration behind the collection, what was your process like when designing for Moncler?

Was all about creativity and to find a way to re-interpret an iconic piece such as the down jacket. We worked on finding out how to adapt the material (down) to our style of creation.

4. You speak about the idea of wearable geometry; can you tell us about that?

I explored an idea of wearable geometry, pushing the limits of duvet from both a technical and an aesthetic viewpoint, striving for innovation in both fields.

5. You work a lot with the interplay between a toughness meeting a femininity, punk aesthetics meets romantic silhouettes, tell us how that was manifested in this collection?

I generally prefer to express this with my collection, not by words.