Vetements is in decline or is it fashion journalism?

Vetements is dead.

No, it's alive and kicking.

Last week, Highsnobiety published an article in which he claimed that the sales of the Gvasalia brothers' brand, after an immediate and brilliant success that even transformed Demna into Balenciaga's creative director, would be in free fall.

This is confirmed by "a variety of sources in the American, European and Asian markets—buyers from retailers stocking the brand, a former Vetements employee and a sales associate from a luxury department store" as reported by the site.

According to an anonymous buyer

"From a retail stand point, Vetements is completely dead…Over the course of two seasons no one is even looking at it. Sales have dropped dramatically to the point where you are now seeing Vetements on sale on various outlets at 60-70% off."

"Customers were instead moving on to [Demna] Gvasalia’s Balenciaga collections, which offer the same look for better price and quality," continues Highsnobiety.

The alleged causes? The absence of innovative garments registered in the most recent seasons has pushed away possible buyers, pushing them to other brands and, above all, Vetements dresses cost too much for their quality.

In other respects, WWD collects information from Saks Fifth Avenue and claims that the brand continues to sell and win over customers with its leaders.

In the meantime, the official comment of the Gvasalia brothers has also arrived.

Guram said that the independent company is outperforming market expectations and shows 50% growth over the previous year.

And he attacks contemporary fashion journalism

"Sadly some journalists today are more concerned with writing fake news and reposting shocking headlines rather than checking facts to show the full picture. It is especially upsetting to see some fashion writers, fueled by their personal agendas, attacking young independent brands while sucking up to big conglomerates for their advertisement budgets. Serious news outlets seem to be turning into tabloids and gossip blogs that impose somebody’s opinion and made-up stories as true facts ".

Demna has instead accused Highsnobiety of fake news by publishing this post through the Instagram account of the label:

“Vetements does not support wannabe journalism based on lies and gossip. Today my team at Vetements is the strongest it has ever been. My responsibility and involvement at Vetements have not changed or been compromised in any way since day one. Despite a four-year-old confusion, I have always been the creative head of Vetements. My focus is, was and always will be the product and the customer who wears it. Fashion is not about hype, nor about useless gossip or opportunistic pseudo journalism, fashion is about clothes. So is Vetements.”

Highsnobiety then reiterated his opinion:

"While it’s impossible to quantify street cred, we have noticed a sharp decline in Vetements in our global street style coverage, and the buyers we spoke to, many of whom work at smaller, independent retailers, often rely on a brand’s strength to help curate their offer, and cater especially to the type of discerning consumer we speak to. The moment a brand like Vetements ends up in larger, more mainstream retailers, it’s a hit to their perceived authenticity. While Vetements is far from dead, to many in the industry — especially the selective market we cater to — it is “over.”"

Summing up Vetements sells, but does not attract more that streetstyle addicted public who had fallen in love with the underground side of the brand (remember the FW15 show in the basement of the famous gay club in Paris, Le Depo?), What, as Cathy Horyn wrote in 2016, "The brand quickly attracted admirers for its sly take on everyday items like sweatshirts, jeans, bomber jackets, and blousy floral dresses that looked pinched from a small-town Salvation Army and reworked with just the right amount of design and humor."

What do you think about it? Do you agree with Gvasalia or with Highsnobiety?