Maison Margiela FW18: the glamour of “dressing in haste”

On Friday 19 January, around 11.00, a salon of the Musée de l'Armée in Paris, hosts the first men's collection designed by John Galliano for Maison Margiela.

The show opens with a double-breasted red overcoat and closes with a dissected white mackintosh worn over beige muslin pants.

In the middle the designer, who found refuge in the Belgian brand and a new job after the dismissal from Dior of 2012, develops the theme of "dressing in haste", the idea of uniting “past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new kind of glamour”.

In terms of fashion this concept translates into color and volume contrasts, sports touches and futuristic accents, deconstruction and tailoring, leather corsets worn over military jackets, feathered shower caps, suits with double-breasted jackets paired with cowboy boots, ski pants, plastic sandals inspired by orthopedic fracture braces, spongy slippers, duvets and pillow-bags.

The new house symbol? A triangle containing a circle, a “synergistic glyph imbued with a positive message”.