Martin Margiela's influence on Gucci FW17-18

Gucci FW17-18 debuted a couple days ago during Milan Fashion Week. Even at a first glance, the references to Martin Margiela's work and fashion philosophy are really evident. Is this enough to shout Alessandro Michele out for plagiarism? Let's analyze which elements have that Margiela touch in this last Gucci show. 

#1 Hidden Faces
The most iconic styling signature of Maisonn Margiela, face masks, have been reproposed by Gucci in a crystal embellished net variation. Maybe this is the strongest reference and surely the one that suggested the plagiarism suspect in first place. But Gucci is not the first one to hide models faces after Margiela. Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Thom Browne and A.F. Vandervorst are just a few examples of famous designers who decided to pay homage to Martin Margiela the same way Alessandro Michele did yesterday. To cover models faces is just an expedient put the accent on the collection and hiding everything that can drive the audience attention away from clothes. Masks can also become a precious accessory and a styling boost for the collection, even Maison Margiela making the famous gem-covered version of the signature masks, turned the minimalistic tone of their face covering into the chance of making a bold line of runway accessories out of an house statement. Alessandro Michele just grabbed the occasion to use this expedient in order to create a more fascinating and mysterious allure around is collection. Masks are just a suggestion, a way to catch the eye and bring the audience even deeper into the designer's world.

#2 Aseptic Location
The plastic walls on both sides of Gucci runway really remind of Margiela's way to think fashion. Actually nor him or his successors ever did anything similar. We instantly think about Margiela because of his legacy. He invented a new way to conceive fashion. An exterminated universe of aesthetics and cultural references that fashion would never forget. Today something can be "Margiela" without ever being tried by the legendary designer or the maison itself. This can easily sum up how Martin Margiela influence has been fundamental to contemporary fashion. The reality is that without his impact it would be hard to even think about today's fashion.

#3 VHS style video
Margiela is famous for having realized video to show his creations from the very first collection. It was his favorite way to communicate his creations. Iconic Martin Margiela videos featured a model on a white background with a voice over explaining mood and functionality of each cape. All MM videos were shot with vintage VHS cameras, so date and timing were visible on top and bottom side of the screen. Gucci FW 17-18 runway video was shot in a similar way. By the way, this vintage videomaking technique was also used by Givenchy and other big fashion houses. This has turned year after year in a classic "alternative" way to shoot fashion videos of runway show videos.  

Contemporary fashion could not exist without Martin Margiela. He is the one that more than anyone else created today's sophisticated statements of beauty. Alessandro Michele with his FW 17-18 show wanted just to pay homage to the legendary designer who was capable of shaping the fashion-world in his own image and likeness over the years.