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Give me five: the best 5 moments of London Women's Fashion Week FW17-18
London Women's Fashion Week FW17-18
Fashion
February 22nd, 2017
February 22nd, 2017
51 shows, 32 presentations, a total of 83 events dedicated to ready-to-wear woman for the FW17-18. These is are some of the number of this London Fashion Week just ended, between deconstructions, references, floral pattern, overlapping and looking for a new concept of femininity. The nss crew dived into this ocean of styles for you choosing the 5 most interesting proposals, including cult designers and emerging talents.
Marta Jakubowski
In a dark room in front of colored heavy velvet curtains, while in the background alternates the voices of Chaka Khan, Sade and Tina Turner, Martha Jakubowski presents her collection for FW17-18. The Polish designer takes early 90s sihouettes and reworked to create the perfect outfit for a determined early 90s woman early 90s, self-confident, who dresses for herself and not to impress someone. The girl graduated from the Royal College of Art combines elegance and experimentation: the mini asymmetrical dresses made in technical fabric are deconstructed puffers, high-waisted pants have soft shapes and are combined with velvet top, turtlenecks cut and tied just below the bust or leave bare shoulders.
Burberry meets Henry Moore. Arrived at the second collection "see now, buy now" in which men and women parading side by side, Christopher Bailey celebrates the British artist, fascinated by the contradictions of his works, in the balance between strength and gentleness, heavy and light , familiarity and abstraction. The sculptor pervades every element from the location at 1 Manette Street, in the heart of Soho, the shirt dress decorated with his sketches, from patchwork sweatshirt revisited in cream tones to the cementina striped blouses and workwear suit with lace on the shoulders inspired by her work uniform. "Henry Moore's art has always loomed large in my imagination: these great, iconic figures in the British landscape, elemental sculptures that manage also to be human, soft, approachable. I've always found them very moving, I think perhaps because they manage to be so monumental and yet so personal, so public and yet so private at the same time...he makes objects that combine beauty with oddness, the recognisable with the strange - explains the designer - And Burberry have always been attracted by the process, and when it is hidden and when it is unveiled and images Moore in his studio have nurtured the collection, the lines of the apron, the tools of the trade, to the times when it is portrayed the artist at work, with interference of proportions, sizes, textures and shapes". So while Anna Calvi sings and in the front row sit celebrities like Naomi Campbell, Anna Wintour, Penelope Cruz, Iris Law or Suki Waterhouse, the colossal figures of Moore, transformed into dresses, come to life. The silhouettes became sculptural, asymmetrical, materials such as shearling wool or macramè lace are increasingly rich, the volumes get bigger, the seams change, the garments are layered. All in neutral tones: white, nude, gray, navy. At the end of the show a stylish surprise: 78 unisex couture hoods limited edition. The entire new collection of Burberry along with 40 works by Moore becomes an exhibition entitled "Henry Moore: Inspiration & Process", open until February 27 at the Makers Farmer House.
Hyein Seo is graduaed at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, last year, was crowned best emerging designer at the International Fashion Showcase and Rihanna has consecrated her work wearing her "Fear" stole after seeing her during a show in Paris. Not bad for this South Korean girl who now makes her debut at London Fashion Week with "Final Boss", a collection inspired by the dystopian world of video games and anime. Akira, Street Fighter and Tekken are the influences hid behind the asymmetric top, maxi puffer jackets, Judo style kimono, the revisited cheongsam (the traditional Chinese dress) or motocross jumpsuit with deep pouch pockets and loose straps. Throughout a rain of badges, patches and pins. The young designer draws on her cultural background and mixes it with street and biker elements, creating garments for bad girls with a rebellious spirit. A curiosity: the models wear the new Nike Air VaporMax, which will hit stores in late March.
"Femininity ... This season I looked for a way to explore the sensuality of the woman and tell it in an easy way, easy. Inserting it into what it is the story of my aesthetic". J. W. Anderson abandons his genderless approach or rather adapts it to his personal vision of the femininity's concept. The Irish designer adds, subtracts, overlap, layering, mixing stereotypes, experimenting with materials and silhouette, creating a stylistic universe of intellectual eroticism. While Primal Scream and Kate Moss singing languid "Some Velvet Morning" the clothes are covered with luminescent pattern, are transformed into delicate saris, the workwear pieces are filled with giant pockets, fur, clouds of marabou together with paisley prints and flashes of lurex are unexpected patchwork elements. The fabrics, from satin to tulle, through the rabbit fur, multiply; the edges are asymmetric, and the volumes will swell under the "weight" of the layers. Each look zip, feathers, chains, metal inserts. Femininity Anderson has a baroque mood, excessive yet remains balanced, is modern, but with a retro flavor.
Marques' Almeida
Everyone knows Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida and their fresh style that has as cult items frayed jeans, oversized jackets and maxi shirt dress. These elements in the latest autumn-winter collection presented at London Fashion Week evolve, enriched with shearling coats, asymmetrical blouses, maxi coat, references to '80s, frayed edges and bicolor pieces like the jacket half black and half white, enlivened with abstract pattern, square, polka dots and stripes. Marques' Almeida invades the Old Truman Brewery in Brick Lane with a series of bright, fun clothes eye-catching thanks to pop prints, lysergic tones and chromatic dualisms. Inspiration? The designers duo through clothing wants to talk about diversity, celebrate each woman and to do that they explore the photographs of Malick Sidibe (an artist who has influenced many creatives in the latest fashion weeks), the paintings of the Russian Kazimir Malevich and the iconic musician Nina Simone.
