Give me five: the best five moments of New York Fashion Week FW17

The weeks dedicated to men's fashion are over. New York is the last step of a tour de force between the clothes and trends that we will see in the fall-winter 2017, but, while other cities dare with some experimentation and artistic digression, the Big Apple remains true to a relaxed, casual style with deep street roots. The famous designers, apart from Raf Simons who chooses NY for the first time, leave space for less international brands and, with some exceptions, this coincides with a general flattening of ideas and originality, abandoned in favour of a typically American no frills pragmatism. So here's a rundown of over coats, jackets, bomber jackets, denim, athleisure, sweaters. That's all?Obviously not. Here are the most interesting collections according to nss.

#1 Raf Simons

Welcome to New York. Raf Simons presents in New York for the first time since he was appointed Calvin Klein's creative director and he does it by honouring the classic iconography disrupted by a young and reactionary twist. Young as the models that show his creations, guys just landed in the Big Apple rocking maxi classic coats and tight vest waisted with tape, baggy pants and oversized knitwear. "I wanted to approach the combination of the mindset of someone who comes to New York for the first time... places that are very tourist... the Statue of Liberty, the I Love Ny... I wanted to go back to how I experienced New York in the beginning and combine it with how I experience it now." So said the Belgian designer in several interviews. Simons, with this inspiration in mind, expands the size of the silhouette, plays with the diy punk philosophy and incorporating in his garments the touristic NY, the one where millions of tourists admire the skyline from the Empire State Building and buy gadgets with the famous graphic "I Simons is officially a New Yorker now.

#2 Ovidia & Sons

Shimon and Ariel aka two brothers who find a way to combine street and cool. Ovadia & Sons designers, inspired by their father carieer as a professional soccer player and conscripted soldier, create a collection that fuses these two souls. They realized a series of velvet sweatshirts, camel coat, shearling jackets, nylon parka, bomber, long duster coats, cardigans, a rugby-striped sweater, oversize plaid shirts. Outerwear is the protagonist of autumn-winter 2017, declined through Athleisure and family roots garments. Ovadia & Sons clothes are memories made of fabrics and talk about their origins. Some examples? The football shirt with Ovadia & Sons written in Hebrew, the vial with sand from the actual stadium where their father played or his number, 5, on the back of varsity jackets.

#3 Nautica

"We went into the archive and started to fall in love with some things, so we retooled them but kept the spirit of what was being done at the time". As told by Steve McSween, creative director of Nautica, the collection presented during the last fashion week in New York was fulled by iconic pieces such as a navy fisherman's jacket, originally created in 1997, or the one with side paneling and logo on the sleeve. The brand that in the 90s became famous for having successfully combined streetwear and sportswear returns to the codes of that decade and reworks them in a simultaneously current and timeless way.It's a classic and informal style composed of dark denim, patchwork jeans in different shades of blue, fur-lined puffer jackets, windbreakers, fleece pullovers. In the front row we recognize Lil Yachty, Nautica's fan who is credited with having revived the brand. A curiosity? It seems that in the fall the rapper could collaborate with the label and become creative designer for a capsule collection.

#4 Stampd

Stampd presents "Asphalt Wave". The Los Angeles brand returns with a collection full of 90s references, inspired by the political disruption and by the street and its colors. This time, in fact, in addiction to camo motifs and classical monochromatic palette made of white, black and shades of gray there are small explosions of saffron and rust. In the rest of the proposal for the autumn-winter 2017 season Chris Stamp remains true to the roots of his streetwear brand and focuses on pieces really wearable, comfortable, cool and easy to mix together: bomber, parka, shearling coat, varsity jackets, fleece sweatshirts and joggers decorated with graffiti-like scrawlings. And even appears a little cholo touch given by the gothic lettering used for the "Stampd" logo. In the front row Ja Rule, Maxwell Osborne and all the others look pleased.

#5 Patrik Ervell

The future borrowed from the past. Patrik Ervell channels the charm for the future reshaping the past. He reminds 90s British rave culture, imaginingG how would they dress now, as adults, the fans of that scene and mixes everything with 70s science fiction. The designer is seduced by nostalgia, by musical parties as Megatripolis, Whirl-y-Gig, Spiral Tribe, Megadog and shows a retro-futuristic collection, poised between fear and hope for what will come. In fashionistas terms these inspirations are translated into oversized windbreakers, vinyl jackets, mohair coats, plastic ponchos, leather pants, work pants in twill or denim, turtlenecks and long sleeve tee. The remixed past becomes the future.