I 5 migliori show della New York Fashion Week FW25 Women's

The fashion month has officially (re)started. As always, New York is the first stop on the calendar, setting the tone for the rest of the season. After a very reduced Milan's schedule and an intense Paris one, the weeks dedicated to menswear last month were rather flat, also due to the number of brands opting for co-ed shows. However, for the FW25 season, NYFW managed to slightly recover, thanks to a high concentration of emerging talents gradually making their way, bringing the American fashion week back to a renewed relevance that had somewhat faded in recent years. Despite the current political landscape in the United States, brands have still managed to convey strong messages through their collections, in pure NYC style. Here are the 5 best shows from New York Fashion Week FW25.

Collina Strada

Irreverent, bold, and full of heritage: these are the defining traits of both New York City and Collina Strada’s FW25 collection. For this season, Hillary Taymour imagines a timeline where «femininity, queerness, and disabilities are not fought against but embraced with empathy». Between reimagined bridal gowns and old double-breasted coats, the collection thrives on an infinite combination of textures and materials, giving them the chance to be reborn and find new life. The result is a fiercely punk femininity that feels like a subtle yet celebratory homage to Vivienne Westwood.

Sandy Liang

“I wonder what I’ll be like as an adult”. A question every woman has asked herself during childhood, influenced by external ideals and the many fantasies of what adulthood could be. That is the core of Sandy Liang’s FW25 collection, a sort of ode to those childhood dreams, infused with nostalgic references to ’90s and 2000s icons like Polly Pocket and Tamagotchis. The runway was filled with twinsets, a quintessentially feminine color palette, and silhouettes ranging from knee-length skirts to minis, subtly nodding to some of the most iconic collections of the era.

FForme

Among the most anticipated debuts of 2025 was undoubtedly that of Frances Howie, who, after over a decade as design director at Stella McCartney, took the creative helm at FForme. A first collection that certainly did not disappoint—unlike a certain colleague in New York—blending a sensuality enveloped in high collars with a dark, textured aesthetic reminiscent of Nosferatu. The standout feature? Fringes, which took center stage both in oversized outerwear and accessories, marking this debut as a major statement.

Khaite

Khaite’s FW25 collection is a masterful homage to David Lynch-inspired minimalism, built on dark, mysterious tones. A striking play of contrasts, particularly between materials: leather juxtaposed with oversized knitwear, fur paired with suede, and silhouettes that remain covered yet inherently sensual. The palette is minimal, with the burgundy red once again taking center stage (perhaps set to remain on trend despite the exit of the designer who revived it), alongside beige hues and neutral tones that seamlessly complement each other.

Thom Browne

After becoming a favorite of Doechii, Thom Browne decided to close NYFW with a show that merged theatricality and precise tailoring. FW25 is a journey between classicism and surrealism, where traditional menswear silhouettes morph into something else. Structured jackets extend almost to the floor, layered pleated skirts move with each step, while tweed suits are enriched with avian-inspired details. The presence of birds is evident throughout, from proportions to textures, with plumage recreated through bouclé weaves and Swarovski crystal embellishments. The result is a collection that reaffirms Browne’s ability to turn tailoring into a performance, keeping his aesthetic rigorous yet constantly evolving.